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Mary Schook

@mary_schook

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NY/CA Licensed Esthetician (20+ YRS)
Product Formulator (NYSCC)
Brand Strategist
Certified Epidemiology Johns Hopkins University Bloomberg School P.H.

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FDA ALERT ON EXOSOME PRODUCTS

It seems everywhere you turn, EXOSOMES are being touted by beauty brands and professionals as the next BIG thing. I had to address this today because too many clients and followers have been asking me for my thoughts.

In one word? ILLEGAL.

To confirm, I spoke with the FDA's Center for Biologics (email response in the slides). The FDA made it clear:"The FDA has not approved ANY exosome product for ANY use."

What Are Exosomes? Imagine tiny mail carriers that deliver important packages to your cells . These "packages" help cells talk to each other and share instructions, like how to repair themselves or stay healthy. Exosomes can come from both humans and plants.

Why This Matters: Using unapproved exosome products is risky for your health. Here’s why: Wrong Messages: Exosomes can carry harmful signals to your cells, which may lead to serious problems like skin cancer or other diseases. Endotoxins: Processing exosomes isn’t always safe. Some products may contain endotoxins, which can cause dangerous inflammation or harmful reactions in your body.

Plant Exosomes: Some beauty brands are now pivoting to plant-derived exosomes, which don’t carry the same risks as human-derived ones. While they may seem safer, this is another way companies are trying to cash in on the exosome trend—so always stay informed and cautious.

The Temptation to Break the Rules: Exosomes are hyped as the "next big thing" in beauty and health. Some brands and professionals are willing to risk their licenses to cash in on the buzz. Why? Because the penalties they face may not seem like much compared to the profits they make. To them, it’s just a business expense.

But is it worth risking your health for something unapproved and unproven?

Side Note: Did you know it’s already illegal for cosmetics to make drug claims? A cosmetic product claiming to treat, cure, or prevent disease (like promoting skin regeneration or healing) crosses into the territory of a drug under FDA regulations. This means exosome products making such claims are not just unapproved—they’re breaking the law twice over.

Protect Yourself- Your safety comes first.

#exosomes #fda #skincare by @mary_schook

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2 years ago

Decoding Niacinamide Reactions: The Purity Puzzle

I can say that my skin and 95% of niacinimide formulations don't get along. I see the same echo on social media blogs, posts, and forums. Ever wonder why that promising Niacinamide product didn't quite agree with your skin? Niacinimide is touted as a skin-soothing ingredient! EVERYONE is quick to blame percentage or pH (in fact Niacinimide converting to nicotinic acid under a pH of 6 is a myth unless exposed under very high temps).

In the lab- Processing Matters:
During the creation of Niacinamide, there's a key player called Nicotinic Acid. But here's the catch - it often leaves a residue. This residual impurity might be the reason behind skin reactions like redness, irritation, acne, or even rosacea.

Nicotinic Acid (Niacin)- B3:
Nicotinic Acid, a form of Vitamin B3. In excess, it can be a skin irritant. When it lingers in Niacinamide, the skin's protective barrier may perceive it as a threat. It may provoke reactions and other unwelcome responses.

The Purity Factor:
Not all Niacinamide is created equal! The purity of this skincare superhero matters. Higher purity means less Nicotinic Acid remnants, translating to fewer chances of skin PTSD.

Why So Reactive?
Our skin is sensitive, and Nicotinic Acid, if not fully refined, can disrupt the delicate balance. It may overstimulate the skin (receptor GPR109A), leading to redness and irritation. Purity ensures you get the goodness of Niacinamide without the unwanted baggage.

Impurity= Skin Stress:
Impurities can act as skin stressors, triggering reactions that are often wrongly labeled as "purging." In reality, it might be your skin reacting to residual impurities.

Opt for skincare brands committed to purity standards with solid formulations. Look for terms like USP grade for Niacinamide. Your skin deserves the best, and purity plays a pivotal role! Since everyone will ask in my DM's the best I've found on Shop My Shelf in the bio

👇 Share Your Thoughts Below!

#niacinimide #skincaremyths #esthetician #formulator #acne by @mary_schook

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3 years ago

by @mary_schook

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7 months ago

New FDA Update: Report Problems with Cosmetics!

Ever get a rash, burning, or hair loss after using a beauty product? Thanks to something called MoCRA the FDA has made it easier to report your reactions.

As of September 12th, 2025 the FDA launched a new tool that helps you check safety reports on cosmetic products like:

💋 Lipstick
🧴 Skincare
💇 Hair products
🧼 Deodorant & more!

It's called the FAERS Dashboard for Cosmetic Products, and it's super helpful if you've had a bad reaction or just want to stay safe.

Here’s What You Can Do With FAERS:

-Look up reports about a product
-Filter by product name, problem type, how serious it was, or when it happened -Download data if you're doing research or just curious
-Report a problem if a product caused a rash, burn, hair loss, or anything weird

Who sends in reports?

Cosmetic brands (they MUST report serious problems now)

Doctors, salon workers, and consumers

🌐 Check it out at: FIS.fda.gov

You deserve to know what’s safe. Use this tool to protect yourself and others.

#FDA #CosmeticSafety #FAERS #MoCRA #BeautyAlert #ReportIt #FDADashboard #ConsumerSafety #SkincareSafety #HairCareSafety by @mary_schook

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a year ago

The other day I heard a creator say that it’s okay if your skincare tingles when you apply it. Here’s the short answer from my 20 years as a practicing licensed esthetician: no, tingling isn’t “normal” and shouldn’t be ignored.

I knew I needed to post about this the same night I saw that reel because I too was feeling a familiar "tingle" from a product I was personally testing. I dug into the formula and realized it was due to an ingredient called dextran, which boosts microcirculation. Instead it immediately left me with puffy, irritated eyes and tiny little breakouts around the nose. I had no sensation at all on the first application. It happened on the second one. A perfect reminder: what sounds like a “benefit” on paper can show up very differently on your skin.

So, why does your skincare tingle?

Actives at higher concentrations – Vitamin C, retinoids, AHAs/BHAs, etc.

pH differences – Some formulas are intentionally acidic (like Vitamin C serums to help penetration or exfoliating acids). If the skin barrier is disrupted, that pH difference can feel stingy.

Barrier disruption – Over-exfoliated, dehydrated, or sensitized skin reacts more easily, even to gentle products.

Irritants and stimulants – Certain additives meant to “boost circulation” or “wake up the skin” can actually trigger redness, puffiness, or discomfort.

Should you keep using it? Here’s the reality: what starts as a “little tingle” can turn into a burn. I've seen that on clients that tolerated a Vitamin C product until they didn't. Over time, your immune system will signal distress with swelling, redness, flaking, or breakouts. Skincare should nurture your skin—not challenge it into inflammation.

My advice: If it tingles, pause. Listen to your skin. There are plenty of effective actives that don’t require discomfort to deliver results. It's not "purging" nor is it something to tough it through. by @mary_schook

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a year ago

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2 years ago

Hyaluronic Acid: A Hidden Ingredient?

I’ve been getting a lot of requests about hyaluronic acid and the different INCI (ingredient list) names it might appear under. But here’s the thing—an INCI name doesn’t tell the whole story.

It’s not just about whether HA is present—it’s about:
-Purity & percentage
-How it’s formulated
-How it interacts with other ingredients -Whether it’s being used for penetration enhancement or just texture
-The source of the HA (bacterial fermentation from Streptococcus zooepidemicus, E. coli, Agrobacterium, or animal-derived from rooster combs to name a few) -Molecular weight—and here’s the issue:

Low molecular weight HA (LMW-HA) has been clinically proven to trigger inflammation, yet there’s no way to determine which molecular weight is being used in most formulations.

Since 2015, when I first noticed the issue, I’ve seen this pattern over and over: When my clients eliminate ALL forms of hyaluronic acid, they stop experiencing:

-Redness & "rosacea" flares
-Random, stubborn breakouts or rashes -Chronically dry skin that never seems to improve
-Sensitive skin

Check the slides for names HA might be listed under. It's difficult to list all the names Hyaluronic acid and its derivatives might be under because of trademarks and "proprietary blends" brands use. Many are starting to realize that HA isn’t always the hero ingredient it’s hyped up to be! Interestingly, those who don’t seem as affected (or even claim to benefit) tend to have oily skin.

Have you noticed any changes in your skin when using (or ditching) HA? Let’s talk in the comments! ⬇️

#SkincareScience #HyaluronicAcid #INCIList #SkinBarrier by @mary_schook

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2 years ago

One day I was in line waiting in the checkout at Ulta Herald Square and found a child barely seven years old (and no sight of supervision) pluck out beauty products and eventually storm past our very long line. Her arms swung with exaggerated animation as if she was headlining a Broadway production. I'd heard the tales of the tweens taking over beauty stores, but up until that moment it was only legend!!!

I thought my viewers might get a kick of my rendition of "Tweens in the Wild" generated completely with AI. Keep in mind while AI has come a long way, I didn't have full control of the renditions or what the techs call hallucinations. Still, it gets the story across with a dose of humor.

Sephora and Ulta alike have become a bustling hub for a new generation of skincare enthusiasts: the Sephora kids. These tweens and teens, reportedly as young as nine years old, navigate the aisles with determination, filling their baskets with upscale skincare products. Their fascination with skincare has even earned them the a name on TikTok- the Sephora kids.

These young aficionados are developing complex skincare routines, mirroring the practices of adults. Armed with Drunk Elephant and other specialized products, they diligently cleanse, moisturize, and protect their skin and no one can tell them anything different.

The beauty market is experiencing a significant boom, with global sales increasing by nearly $100 billion between 2020 and 2022. Social media plays a pivotal role, with "skinfluencers" sharing their routines and promoting products. The messages about anti-aging, wrinkle prevention, and skin protection resonate, even if they weren't initially meant for tweens. Let's hope they have a barrier after all of this! Have you witnessed a tween in the wild?!

#sephora #beautyhaul #tweens #AI #humor #explorepage by @mary_schook

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2 years ago

The LA Fires Aren’t Just Hard on Your Lungs—They’re Hard on Your Skin Too.

When wildfires rage, the air fills with pollutants like metals, soot, and chemicals from exhaust. These airborne toxins don’t just harm your lungs—they penetrate your skin, accelerating aging and dullness.

How Does Pollution Affect Skin?

Particles infiltrate pores, causing oxidative stress.

They reduce blood oxygen levels, making skin look tired and sallow and hard to repair.

Long-term exposure leads to wrinkles, dark spots, and reduced elasticity.

They bind to DNA distorting or interfering with replication

Who’s Leading the Fight in Beauty? Asian skincare brands like Shiseido have pioneered a lot of money into research on how pollution impacts skin health. I find their main focus is on prevention.

Solutions You Can Try Today:

Antioxidants: Products with Vitamin C or E neutralize free radicals when formulated well.

Daily SPF: Even during pollution-heavy days, aka protect your barrier with a barrier.

Cleanse Thoroughly: Remove particles with double cleansing- probably the most important part.

Shower Filters: These reduce pollutants like metals in water that cling to your skin. Metals like lead, mercury, and arsenic can damage DNA.

Air Purifiers: Reduce indoor exposure to airborne irritants. Carbon + Hepa is needed in cases like LA.

My heart goes out to all affected by the fires. While skin is our protector to the environment, please still do everything you can to protect your lungs!!!

#lafire #notanad #science #aging by @mary_schook

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2 years ago

by @mary_schook

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2 years ago

Vitamin C for Skin: Is It Legit?

Vitamin C has been getting a bad rap. I see so many people on social media saying it doesn’t work, and others who’ve ended up literally burning their skin with elixirs that smell of "hotdog water". Here’s the truth: you don’t need sky-high percentages to see real results.

I came across a German study on live human skin that found Vitamin C at just 3% can significantly improve skin tone, boost collagen, and fight free radicals. That’s the sweet spot—it works without overloading your skin. This wasn’t just a lab study. It was tested in real-life conditions, so no need to scorch your skin chasing results!

Why does Vitamin C "burn"? It’s usually the formulation, not the Vitamin C itself. Here are the most common issues:

-Unstable formulations: When Vitamin C oxidizes, it becomes less effective and more irritating.

-High concentrations (20% or more): These overwhelm your skin barrier, leading to redness and peeling.

- Low pH: Vitamin C, especially ascorbic acid, is acidic. If the pH is too low, it can disrupt your skin barrier and cause actual burns.

How do you get results without irritation?The trick is to look for balanced, stable formulations with added ingredients that boost Vitamin C’s benefits. For example, Vitamin E and ferulic acid help stabilize Vitamin C and double its potency. This combination is also fantastic for calming inflammation and protecting skin from UV damage.

Other antioxidants like resveratrol, coenzyme Q10, and glutathione are amazing complements to Vitamin C, offering added protection against free radicals and amplifying anti-aging effects. They work together to give you better results without needing to crank up the Vitamin C percentage.

The takeaway? Vitamin C isn’t just hype—it’s one of the most well-studied skincare ingredients out there. You don’t need to blast your skin with high concentrations to see results. A lower percentage, combined with the right supporting ingredients, is all you need for healthier, glowing skin—without the irritation. I explain the science of C if you go back to older posts.

Got a fave Vitamin C combo?

#SkincareScience #Antioxidants #HealthyGlow by @mary_schook

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2 years ago

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2 years ago