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Mike Doyle - 🇨🇦

@mikedoyleca

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Software grunt. Working remotely.
Work, climb, repeat...
Just a climbing profile, not reality 😂
Thanks to: @lasportivana @metoliusclimbing

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Might as well show the crux moves of "To Infinity and Beyond" since I've got the footage.
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The first clip is the crux of the whole thing and is in the "second pitch", ~30m up. That right hand pinch is really bad but matching the undercling pocket is probably the crux. Initially I match with my right middle finger barely in the pocket, quickly move the left hand out to another bad undercling and try to wiggle my right ring finger into the pocket, with all my weight still on that hand. I have to twist and concentrate on "leading" with the ring finger. If it settles in correctly then all my weight is on the ring finger. I can then press out on a sloper to the left, put even more pressure on the ring finger and move my feet up for a big move. Make a quick clip and stay really tight to the wall on a bad right crimp and horrible left foot. Grab a slick left pinch and reach up into an undercling.
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The second clip is the crux roof encounter of the "third pitch", at around the 50m mark. Most of my weight is on that scummy knee to reach up to two bad crimps. For me it's then an extended reach up to a slotted crimp with the right hand, to quickly bring the left hand into one of the coolest holds at 5G (third photo), bring the feet up and throw to a sloping ledge.
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After that, you're almost done. Just another 15m left. Who's up?
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Longer video is up on my youtube page.
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#climbing
#rockclimbing
#workclimbrepeat
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@metoliusclimbing
@lasportivana taken in Las Vegas, Nevada by @mikedoyleca

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a month ago

"To Infinity And Beyond"
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Clocking in at just over 65m this route is a journey. This particular journey started in the fall of 2021 when I bolted this line. My original intent was to climb it as a three pitch route but the logistics of that was too complicated. Although I did manage to drag Matt King (@katming ) up once to belay the second pitch (To Infinity).
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Even as a single pitch it was hard to ask people for such a long belay. Most of the people I climb with have their own objectives, their own tight schedule and getting cold while belaying doesn't work well. So I rope soloed it a few times, focused on other projects and would ask for a belay at the end of the day, usually in the sun.
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The majority of the climbing is pretty monotonous, the crux in the "second pitch" is savage but the roof encounter to start the third pitch and the fact that it finishes on the top of the cliff will make this route worthwhile.
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I'm calling it 14b for now. Go get on it and downgrade it if you want!
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#climbing
#rockclimbing
#workclimbrepeat
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@lasportivana
@metoliusclimbing taken in Las Vegas, Nevada by @mikedoyleca

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a month ago

Another summer in Canmore has come and gone. I love this place; the climbing, the views and the PEOPLE! Thank you all for a wonderful summer. Definitely the best place to be in North America.
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#workclimbrepeat
#rockclimbing
#climbing
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@lasportivana
@metoliusclimbing
@lasportivagram by @mikedoyleca

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3

a month ago

"Just remember: He who punts and walks away, lives to punt another day"
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One of my favorite feelings when climbing is fighting for an onsight when there's some pressure on the line. I don't get to do it very much so I improvise, I quite often don't go to the top of routes that are below my project level, or I might go up them once but then I have to wait until I'm redpointing to get back up there.
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For the record, I know this is a horrible tactic but I enjoy it.
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I was trying a route up at the Coliseum called "Spectre", it links into "The Shadow" well past the crux of both routes but where there are some big moves and not much opportunity to recover if you botch the sequence. I had done the shadow many years ago and didn't let myself go to the top when working Spectre. When I was finally through the bottom of spectre I went into the top of The Shadow very pumped. I then proceeded to botch the beta in every way imaginable but somehow kept fighting and moving up. Until the 5.9 topout... All I remembered was "high left foot". But that wasn't correct so, well, I punted about 5' from the anchors on a 40m route. Definitely bad tactics but I would've been much more satisfied with a good fighting send than the casual topout that comes with knowing.
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Punters gonna punt...
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I'll stick with my approach.
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#climbing
#rockclimbing
#workclimbrepeat
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@lasportivana
@metoliusclimbing
@pntr_climbing taken in Canmore, Alberta by @mikedoyleca

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2 months ago

Good times. taken in Squamish, British Columbia by @mikedoyleca

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4 months ago

Well damn Vancouver, you really know how to pull on the heartstrings. And you really pulled out all the stops this time; two weeks of gorgeous weather, a true celebration, a festive world cup atmosphere, climbing, hiking, biking, running, BBQs, cocktails and quick catch-ups over beer.
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A huge thank you to all the people that made time and space for me. And a sincere apology to the people I didn't meet up with or if we only had a brief moment. It was a whirlwind.
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The climbing community is the best and I miss you all. I needed this.
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#climbing
#rockclimbing
#workclimbrepeat taken in Vancouver, British Columbia by @mikedoyleca

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4 months ago

5G season came to an end a little earlier than I would have liked this year. Oh well, it just means I'm on the road and have more to look forward to when I return!
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And I never said these holds were jugs. I just said this route is a good warmup! The sequence and rock where this photo was taken is so much fun.
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Starship - 13a
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#climbing
#rockclimbing
#workclimbrepeat
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@metoliusclimbing
@lasportivana
@lasportivagram taken in Las Vegas, Nevada by @mikedoyleca

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4 months ago

Mike Doyle @mikedoyleca shows us his rehab and warm-up routine using the Metolius Light Rail at the crag. #trainingforclimbing #rehabforclimbers #metoliustraining by @mikedoyleca

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5 months ago

Bouldering on a rope is my favourite kind of bouldering. This is probably the steepest climb at 5G 😂.
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Element 115
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#climbing
#rockclimbing
#workclimbrepeat
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@lasportivagram
@metoliusclimbing
@lasportivana taken in Las Vegas, Nevada by @mikedoyleca

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5 months ago

For almost 30 years you were one of my favourite climbing partners. Was hoping for more. 🍻 by @mikedoyleca

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5 months ago

I just spent the past four weeks in Rodellar and it was phenomenal. I was there in 2008 but somehow I've forgotten just how good the climbing is there and the sheer abundance of fun lines.
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It took longer than I expected to shake off the vacation mode of Mallorca, to build the skin and fitness needed for this place but after the first week I settled into a good routine. Now I just want to go back with more power and fitness 😂.
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Here's just a few random photos from the trip.
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The time difference between the west coast of North America, combined with not much to do in the evenings, worked well for me to work full-time+. Will definitely consider doing this more in the future.
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#climbing
#rockclimbing
#workclimbrepeat
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@metoliusclimbing
@lasportivana taken in Rodellar, Aragon, Spain by @mikedoyleca

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a year ago

The last post was about fun, easy climbing that gets you pretty high above the water. This is arguably the most fun part of DWS, just flowing.
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However, it's not the most fulfilling for me. Sometimes you need to try hard, and fall. Or worse, try hard and succeed, then get higher and have to jump. It's a vicious cycle 😂.
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Another fantastic trip to Mallorca in the books. I'll miss the place but not the mustaches.
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#climbing
#rockclimbing
#workclimbrepeat
#dws
#psicobloc
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@lasportivana
@metoliusclimbing taken in Mallorca, Islas Baleares, Spain by @mikedoyleca

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a year ago