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Steven Lang

@millingchips

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Making chamfers with my reconditioned Stanley hand plane. Seems to do a good job take a look! taken in Columbus, Michigan by @millingchips

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3 years ago

When sharpening a hand plane on sandpaper you can do it dry and keep your paper clean. Use a magnet to pick up all the iron filings you can even erase away any leftover marks with a poly eraser. No oil or water is ever! Your pape will lat lot longer! by @millingchips

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3 years ago

Can you guess which chisle is the sharpest?

The Stanley's vs. the China makes! Can you tell which one paired the block shown? All are reconditioned chisles, only costing $1 from the flea market. These are great chisels to learn how to free hand chisel sharpen. If you mess one up, we'll that's OK! Go back and learn till it's square and sharp. After the first one and I got the feel and hear the feedback from your sharpening methodology.

It's better than messing up a Harold and Saxon set valued at $1,200, Lie-Nielsen, Blue Spruce, or even a high-end japense set! Remember, James Wright chisle test, of over 42 chisles of many global brands, and he chose the Narex Richter overall, based on his weighting / critera. By the way, the Narex Richter chisel blades are made from the Chrome Vanadium (Cr-V) steel also interesting.

All mine were sharpened by hand, on grit paper on granite and polished on glass with no stroping! 220 (grind and shape), then polish with 600, 1000, 1500, green and red rouge on label paper, all dry, no fluids, or oil, and all are chrome vanadium blades.

They are all the same sharpness and all cut with the nip at the start of a pair, same cutting force or pressure, and type of chip. Also, i saw now the difference in the wood surface as shown, what should not be surprising.

The real difference is in the handles and how they feel in your hand, the control you have, and the grip when pushing them. More on this later post.

Any of these and other brands with chrome vanadium blades are good starter chisels or just a good standard chisel for any home shop.

Of course, there are many more expensive and different grades of steel that are designed for different types of woods or for those who work with their chisels on a daily basis all day.

Thus, being a home shop, touching up my chisels a little more than the next guy with a higher durable edge , it's not a big deal, at least to me! by @millingchips

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3 years ago

My Mini has a big brother! by @millingchips

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4 years ago

My Lie Neilson No.102 has a baby brother from another mother Lady Veritas! 😁🤣😃

But let me assure you, it's no toy at 2.5" L x ¾" W, cast stainless steel, and 01 blade.

It took a little effort to get the blade sharp! But you can see the results in the last photo!

If you have a small or tight area this big guy will tackle it no problem! taken in Columbus, Michigan by @millingchips

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4 years ago

What would Steve do?

When changing out your roll of toilet paper, rolls, sometimes you have a roll that isn't finished completely. What do you do with it - throw it out? Nope!

You get an empty food can and put it in, and use it on your workbench or desk till it's gone!

You can decorate the can to your liking! Why waste it, you paid for it paper and the can! Just pull up and tear tear a piece off!

Reuse, repurpose, and don't waste things! Try to minimize your impact on the mothership! by @millingchips

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4 years ago

At the flea market what an amazing little wagon! Didn't buy out of my ballpark!

This was an time is when designers could design and had control of it!

But nowadays everything is simply made for cost with mimial artistic dsign allowed, which leads to no design moxy just function, chop chop! Bean counters and cad desingers thinkng designing is usin an opeators is designing? taken in Columbus, Michigan by @millingchips

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4 years ago

Which has the better point? Straight pin or my ice pick?

Pic 1: Well in the last post I finished the handle, now is the shanks . Is the ice pick sharper and smoother than a straight pin, which was all done by hand work!

Pic 2: looking through my jewelers loop let's take a closer look.

Pic 3: zooming in some more, it looks like I have a developed a fine point by the draw and twist method of sharpening on a 600 Stone which I've shown already in previous post.

Pic 4: as I zoomed in even closer I was surprised to see the grind marks on the straight pin on the left and not being fully polished. My ice pick has a better finish than the straight pin, and just as pointy!

Pic 5: let's put the new ice picked to work! I marked a center and a piece of paper using sharpen number two pencil.

Pic 6: it's clear that I can hit the center point of the two intersecting lines with no problem. The center punch you would have trouble locating this point accurately or as accurately this is punch prick or ice pick can.

Another tool could be using a compass point or even a straight pin if you want highly accurate centers markings then come back with your center punch to locate off of this Mark.

I was surprised so to see this straight pin so poorly finished! Buyer beware! by @millingchips

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4 years ago

What another stratch awl, or prick punch or ice pick, restore! Yep!

It had a good point on it, but the handle was a little shaky looking. Felt sorry for it so I brought it home also ! thought it was Ash originally or some other soft wood but to my surprise!

Simple evening project to clean up! What's fun is applying French polishing techniques to the finish the handle versus using shoe polish. The verdict still out but the wood grain in the handle really turned out nice I was very surprised! Can anyone guess what type of wood it is?

I'm going to address the shank of this tool on the next posting. Another question is why are there so many names for different tools that are basically the same? Ice pick, center punch, prick punch, and scratch awl!

To me this particular punch or prick have the lines of being ice pick more than a scratch awl. But I'm fine work or small work you could use it like a scratch awl! Also I think the difference between these two tools are the thickness of their Shank. Nice pic is usually much thinner than a scratch-all.

I would guess the type of work and what genre of work you're in makes a difference in the punch or prick you choose!

In this case I'm only going to be using this for layout work and for miniature work I'll show more the next posting! taken in Columbus, Michigan by @millingchips

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4 years ago

Finishing the flea market ice pick!

Pic 1: it may seem like hard work but it's not to hand finish around shaft like this ice pick. Here are the tools of the trade hand file, and a variety of die stones. From the previous post you saw the shaft was quite Rusty so I know filed the shaft down to get rid of 98% of the rust in pets in the shaft. The next procedure was to form the point using the file same as the shaft but a different angle. The point wasn't put on till it was stoned by hand.

Pic 2: here I'm taking off the file marks in shaping down the shaft to the tip a series of stones for use to bring its luster back.

Pic 3: showing showing the point on the shaft be informed by dragging on the stone and rotating at the same time. Text about 15 minutes to make the point then on to the polishing

Pic 4: the pic is finally completed! Think it turned out well overall. And finishing was a fun project challenging at times but I like this handle design was willing to put the work in to get a nice pic like this!

It also was to show everybody that you don't need big Grinders and buffers and high-speed this and that to get the job done just a few hand tools and a couple of stones and you can complete a project like this. Give it a try and surprise yourself! taken in Columbus, Michigan by @millingchips

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4 years ago

Continuing the work!

Pic 1: here I'm continue working scraping the handle down of the old finish exposing War wounds. For restoration work on handles I like to use a scraper first to get under the Finish whatever that may be to see what the wood is in its condition easiest way to do it.

Pic 2: here's the handle after it's been scraped and lightly sanded with 220. Moving on to 600. Also going to put on two coats of shellac and finish Sandy

Pic 3: here I have finished applying for six coats of shellac using the French polish method. Works well.

Pic 4: here I left the new ice pick and it's natural wood tones with shellac only. The one on the bottom is a smaller ice pick that are refurbished but that one I used brown shoe polish it also works very well for Hardwoods. Very handy and small places.

Pic 5: here I have the handle finished and the furrow finished with a lead in on the shaft. If you zoom in you'll see this shaft is very Rusty and needs to be completed by hand. Will pick up on the next posting with that operation and put in a new point on by hand. taken in Columbus, Michigan by @millingchips

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4 years ago

Bring this old ice pic back to service!

Pic 1: Here's an old ice pic I found at the flea market last Sunday!

Pic 2: Cleaning up the furrow with a piece of 220 to get the rust off and back to the shine!.

Pic 3 : On the back of the 220 sheet before cutting I put a piece of shipping tape on. This helps the sandpaper from tearing as you can see. As you can see, I did the sanding and the paper still good. The peace to the right is another piece of 600 with masking tape on the back for flexibility and stretch but not tearing! Good for getting in those hard curves.

Pic 4: I use a Carl rt- 200 professional rotary trimmer. This tool makes really nice strips any thickness you want always cut with the Brookside down. Cutting wheel lasts a long time. The rubber strip on the board is also replaceable.

Listen to me a good little project I'll do a follow-up when done! taken in Columbus, Michigan by @millingchips

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4 years ago