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Historian • Rotterdam based
Exploring Greece
Passionate Mediterranean soul
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JASONE | SGB — Part I

I drove into Kalamaria.

Then I walked into his house. On the table: an enormous blackbook. Worn leather. Heavy. Almost like an ancient Bible.

Jasone opened it.

Before graffiti, there was a bboy. In Alexandroupoli, in the 1980s, Dimitris discovered breakdancing. After his father retired from the army, the family returned to Saloniki.

Then came hip-hop. Records. Walk This Way. Aerosmith and Run-D.M.C. on repeat.

In 1991, Style Wars appeared on Greek television. SEEN. T-Kid. CES. Something clicked. He started writing.

In 1992, Dee-71 gave him Subway Art and Spraycan Art. Jasone studied every page, trying to understand letters and characters as one.

Then came the trains. The first car was a well-prepared mission: sketch, calculations, panels. SGB crew prepared the silver base. Jasone came behind with the letters. Less than 45 minutes.

Later, he handed a photo of that train to SEEN, one of his idols.

September 1995, Jasone met Bizare, that day TXC would perform at the festival.

The Kerts twins, Artemios, Bizare and Jasone went out to paint.

The beginning of their bond:  brothers in arms.

In 1996, Bizare painted his first, and only train, with Jasone and Ore.

To Jasone, Bizare was the king of characters. When Bizare was around, Jasone preferred not to paint a character.

Then came Sparvar. Better paint. More colours. Cleaner lines. Finer details. Smaller characters. It took Jasone to the next level.

Then Loomit opened another door: 3D. "I kept my style, but it was 3D from then.”

Jasone never simply followed graffiti. He absorbed it. Transformed it. Pushed it further. The names that inspired him eventually became people he met: SEEN, CES, Cowboy 69, Mode2 and Loomit.

Then Jasone became a writer another generation looked up to. 12os Pithikos and Zissis told me Jasone was their hero, like Superman or Spider-Man to other kids.

At the end, I asked Jasone to write his name as in 1991. He laughed and wrote it. JASONE, 2026. "More angry.” Thirty-five years. Two names,  different energy.

Kalamaria: Walls were still there. Jasone isn’t just part of Greek graffiti history. He is one of the reasons it has a history to tell.

#greekgraffiti taken in Kalamaria by @moa_in_2026
17
a month ago
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EVERSOR | 8.09.26 | PART I

ART ON STEROIDS

Paintings, cinema & architecture. His inspirations outside of music. Caravaggio. Scorsese. French brutalist post-modern architecture. What connects them is the artist’s unmistakable signature. To him, it’s art on steroids.  

Brutal. Extreme. The artist’s ability to focus on what matters. The message cannot be denied. Techniques. Drama. Everything pushed forward. Nothing feels accidental. No room for wandering. Art reduced to its essence.  

That signature. That unmistakable way of expressing who you are as an artist. It’s what he sees in his idols, and what he wants to achieve in his work.  

MENTALITY

Music was already there. While other kids were playing computer games, Eversor was making his first beats.

Then, at 16, everything changed. Three hours in a coma. A month in hospital. A dark period followed. He knew he needed a way out.

He had read about the latest samplers in overseas magazines. A day before Christmas, the store called: the machine had arrived. It was pouring rain, but nothing could stop him. It became his way forward.  

“I started creating my life. Music was my path.”

Gold. Platinum. Silent witnesses on his walls.

CREATIVE PROCESS

At his studio, he shows me his process through the first track he has just finished for Ninety-Nasty. An instrumental project giving him the freedom to explore new techniques, new paths and self-development. For the love of the sport. For his own sanity.

Before making a track, he starts with a title. It sets the boundaries. “When I’m limited, the whole result is really solid.”

For his first track “These Mean Streets,” he went back to the nineties, gathering samples to capture the era. Then building with today’s approach. He lets me hear the raw material develop: beats, layers, changes, to the finished track.

If it doesn’t reach his standards, he deletes it. “I will not relate to something lower.”

The next day, he starts again. No shortcuts. “I do not want listeners to get lost. I want it to the point that it sticks.”  No shortcuts, that's Eversor.

This was only our first conversation. The journey will continue. 

#Greekhiphop #Greekhistory #Eversor taken in Αθινα by @moa_in_2026
4
19 days ago
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NORTHERN GREECE — WHERE THE STORY GOT REAL

Some journeys are about places. Others are about the people who open doors you didn’t even know existed.

My first days in Saloníki started with Ap.set in his studio, coffee with Kostas (Antilope), and an evening with Eshos, Logos Apeilh and Zoi. Music, politics, stories and ideas flowed freely. I was no longer simply researching Greek hip-hop and graffiti. I was being invited into its world.

Then north: Kavála, Xánthi, Alexandroúpoli. Graffiti everywhere, often carrying messages of resistance and anti-fascism. Somewhere along the way I ran out of fuel with a dead phone, almost ended up at Studio 23, which I had mistakenly thought was a graphic design studio. A gas station saved the day.

Then came writer SKE and γιαγιά. Within days, I felt part of the family. Explored cities, the Greek-Turkish border, talked hip-hop, beat making, and on my last night, at 5:30 AM went out for a throw-up.

Back in Saloníki, Kalamariá gave me another layer of the story: a neighbourhood shaped by the refugee exchange of the 1920s, where people had to rebuild their lives from scratch.

At the studio of Logos Apeilh I spent days watching ideas turn into music, recording, writing, freestyling, talking politics, Greece’s economic reality and music that shaped us. I began to understand that hip-hop is not just music. It is about friendship, respect, trust, memory and connection.

Between studio sessions, the new gen of writers showed me their Saloníki and what they want to express. At 3:30 AM: another throw-up.

Jasone showed me his 1st blackbook and told me how it all began. Dimitris Mougos, who has documented Saloníki’s subculture for decades, added another piece to the picture.

And then, even missing my flight became part of the story. I ended up camping with someone who welcomed me into a place filled with his childhood memories. I will always cherish that trust and the memories shared.

Northern Greece gave me far more than places. It gave me people who opened doors, and stories that cannot be found in archives.

Big shout-out to everyone who trusted me with their stories.

Special thanks to @deejaypropo88 @danny91_____  @logos.apeilh taken in Θεσσαλονικη by @moa_in_2026
1
a month ago
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AMSTERDAM DRUG LORD ADVERTISED THROUGH GRAFFITI IN THE EARLY 1980s

"NYC was the bar," BEZ said. Back then, graffiti was used by everyone, from Yaki Kornblit bringing it from NYC into European galleries, to drug lord Klaas Bruinsma using it as street advertising for his hash brand "Happy Family". SHOE dropped "Happy Family" pieces all over Amsterdam.

My research in Greece started with basketball in Thessaloniki. It led me to hip-hop, photography, galleries, and eventually graffiti.
That journey brought me to Volume 4 of The History of Graffiti in Greece. Unexpectedly, I came across the name of a writer from Rotterdam, BEZ. Thanks to @rtm_one, I found myself sitting in his living room days later.

BEZ Greek-Dutch (60). Still painting.

BEZ started with breakdancing. After discovering Bando's work in Paris, he picked up the cans. Inspired by Subway Art and Spraycan Art, he became part of a generation that helped spread graffiti across Europe.

During summer trips to Greece, BEZ searched for local writers. His brother put up homemade posters with his phone number. At first, nothing happened. Then, while taking them down, a Greek writer approached him. Young Greek writers, knew BEZ from international zines and were eager to learn. To this day, he remains one of the early figures of the Athens graffiti culture.

His archive is incredible: black books, sketches, photographs, newspaper clippings, decades of graffiti history preserved in boxes and folders.

And then there are the stories.

One in particular: BEZ once had a crazy plan to tag the entire Acropolis. Late at night, he went up the hill with his cans, ready for the mission. Then he saw them: thousands of glowing eyes. Not the police. Stray dogs. The guardians of Athens. BEZ bounced.

BEZ still sketches every day, cutting, rearranging, and refining until he finds the perfect concept. His work can still be found throughout Rotterdam and beyond. For him, it's still about the raw shit: letters.

History doesn't only live in archives. Sometimes it's found in black books, old photos, and memories.

Next stop: meeting writers, rappers and photographers in Athina.

#GreekGraffiti #GreekHiphop #GreekHistory taken in Rotterdam, Netherlands by @moa_in_2026
8
4 months ago
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EXARCHEIA | History that speaks through walls, music and people

As a historian and photographer, I am interested in documenting living history, history that exists beyond official archives. History that speaks through walls, music and people.

To understand how people experience their own world, I listen to their language, stories and memories. I observe symbols, rituals and everyday life, to understand what a place means to the people who create and inhabit it.

The last months, I spent time in Exarcheia and spoke with graffiti writers, photographers, journalists, musicians, students and long-time residents. Others shared deeply personal stories and asked to remain anonymous.

Their backgrounds are remarkably different. Some describe themselves as anarchists, others as left-wing or communists. Some are architects or doctors, others artists, musicians or people from working-class families. Yet they share a belief that another Greece is possible, and that silence is not an option.

They spoke about gentrification, housing sold to foreign investors, the planned metro station in Exarcheia, corruption, police violence and solidarity. They spoke about Alexandros Grigoropoulos, whose killing in 2008 became a symbol for a generation, and about rapper Killah P, whose murder in 2013 changed Greece forever. They spoke about festivals, where artists, activists and young people continue to create spaces for dialogue, anti-racism and community.

These stories are not only about the past; they are also shaped by the present. By the collapse of a residential building after repeated warnings. By the factory fire whose smoke covered Athens while I was there. By the death of a 20-year-old man after he was shot by police in July. And by Tempi, a tragedy as the consequence of years of neglect, inadequate safety systems and a political culture where accountability too often comes too late. For many, these are not isolated tragedies, but symptoms of deeper structural problems.

Walking through Exarcheia, graffiti begins to read differently. It becomes memory. Protest. Solidarity. Hope.

I am grateful to everyone who trusted me with their stories.

#greekhiphop #greekgraffiti taken in Athina Greece by @moa_in_2026
0
2 months ago
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FÉNY | 18.06.2026

«Από τη νιότη μου χρόνε προδότη, που να ελπίζω και πώς να αφεθώ; Σ αυτή την πόλη που πέφτουμε μόνοι, μόνη μου θα σηκωθώ.»

Those words capture Fény's music.

Her track "Chrone Prodoti" reflects on growing up in a society marked by injustice, alienation and exhaustion. It is about searching for dignity in an indifferent city while refusing to surrender to despair. Deeply personal, yet unmistakably political.

The first time I saw Fény, she was rapping in front of the Greek Parliament at the open mic of Raw Rap Greece. Every line felt honest and real. That defines Feny as an artist.

Walking through Athens, Fény told me how it began. She started writing poems and lyrics as a child. ZN were among the first Greek rap acts she listened to, and by thirteen she was already writing rap. To her, artists with identity and authenticity matter: people who back up their words with actions. Staying true to yourself instead of pretending to be someone else to be liked.

Hip-hop is directly linked to everyday life and naturally addresses social and political issues, as Fény explains.

That commitment is perhaps best captured in "Ypopsies", a track about a society driven by money, manipulation and fear, where people struggle to survive without losing their dignity. Rather than accepting that reality, it calls for awareness, resistance and solidarity. 

"Russian Roulette," a collaboration with Jkone and Supreme, honours their friend Andrikos (Antreas Odysseas), an old-skool Greek hip hop artist who was killed in a hit-and-run in August 2021. It also speaks to the Tempe train disaster of 28 February 2023, when 57 people, mostly young students, lost their lives after two trains collided. Since then, Greece has witnessed mass demonstrations demanding justice, and Tempe has become a symbol of state negligence and failed accountability. "Russian Roulette" transforms that collective anger and grief into uncompromising rap.

We ended the afternoon with freddo cappuccinos overlooking the Acropolis, listening to one of her unreleased tracks. Fény turns lived experience, memory and resistance into music that defines her as an artist.  

📷 1, 2, 5, 6, 7: @itsphotocase taken in Αθινα by @moa_in_2026
4
3 months ago
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4.10.2026

PLANNED FOR DEMOLITION

Wandering through the Van Laere site, I found myself walking through a immense canvas.

Before redevelopment and demolition, the former Van Laere site temporarily became the setting for Planned for Demolition. Its warehouses, offices, corridors, walls and outdoor spaces temporarily became the studio of the international graffiti scene.

A dialogue emerged with the place, where not only spray cans, but also its history and physical surroundings became part of the artistic expressions.

From abstract to realistic, from political statements to pure poetry. Sometimes an explosion of colour, at other times black and white was enough.

No other art form could have brought an abandoned place like this back in the game, reconnecting it to today’s reality, making it relevant, vibrant and truly inspiring.

Project by
@wallin_9000 
@the_abstract_session
@planned_for_demolition
@magnus_mori__
@eyes_b_tsunamigraffiti
@michadebie

📸 moa_in_2026

#graffiti #graffitihistory #graffitigreece taken in Antwerp, Belgium by @moa_in_2026
3
11 days ago
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02.10.2011 † 27.06.2026

BLUE

Not the average dog’s life. You were there, saw all the highs and lows. Quietly by my side while I fought my demons, keeping me grounded.

I miss you, dude. taken in Svenborg, Fyn, Denmark by @moa_in_2026
0
14 days ago
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11.09.2026 

FROM THESSALONIKI TO UTRECHT

2012, @thessalonikihiphopfestival  DJ Propo’s first international show. Him on the cuts, @mr.blabbermouf on the mic. That’s where the Greece connection got real.

Today, in his Utrecht lab: crates of LPs, samplers from the ’90s, right up to the latest gear of 2026. Old-skool foundations. Today’s reality.

Digging, chopping, flipping all part of that Ground Beef signature.

Shout out to @deejaypropo88

More soon.

#GreekHiphop #Greekhistory #thhf #dutchhiphop #groundbeefrecords taken in Utrecht, Netherlands by @moa_in_2026
5
a month ago
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WORKS, GRAFFITI, ARCHIVE  
ORESTIS PANGALOS

Thessaloniki, 27.08.2026

At the opening tonight, I had the chance to experience this impressive exhibition: more than 500 works spanning four decades, from murals and graffiti to installations, projections, videos and historical archive material.

The exhibition gives a rare glimpse into the underground life of Thessaloniki: what happens beyond the official archives, on the streets and on the walls.

From around 1993 to the present, we see Orestis through many layers, as a writer, monumental artist, architect and art theorist.

A fascinating portrait of both the artist and the underground history of the city.

📷 Clicks by moa_in_2026

#greekgraffiti #greekhistory #greekhiphop #ORE taken in MOMUS-Πειραματικό Κέντρο Τεχνών / Experimental Center for the Arts by @moa_in_2026
3
2 months ago
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NAMES BEFORE FACES 

INSIDE GREEK GRAFFITI

Two months ago, I opened my first book on Greek graffiti. The adrenaline jumped off the pages. Not because of the walls, but of the people behind them. 

Writers. Stories. Unseen moments from the underground. A world where names become identities, walls become memories, and every piece tells a story. 

Some writers shaped the scene by pushing letters further. Others through political messages, characters, or styles that stood apart. Friendships formed on the streets grew into collaborations in tattoo studios, design agencies, photography, music, and festivals, while graffiti remained the thread connecting them. Since then, those pages have taken me further than I ever imagined, into a network of writers, photographers, tattoo artists, designers, and musicians, all connected through graffiti.

The more I learned, the more I realised there is no single story of Greek graffiti. Some spend years refining letters until every line feels right. Others create their identity through recurring characters or use them as part of larger pieces. Some are drawn to the speed and adrenaline of tags, throw ups, and train bombing, while others prefer the mission, planning, and teamwork behind panels or whole cars. Many move between all of these worlds, depending on the moment, the idea, or the place. Others channel that same creative energy into murals, books, galleries, photography, or commissioned work. The medium changes, but the creative drive remains.

It is not only about brotherhood. The scene is shaped by creativity and rivalry. Crews are formed, reputations are built, and pieces can become statements, challenges, or disses. Respect is earned, challenged, and defended. Sometimes a wall becomes a conversation. At other times, it becomes a confrontation.

The thrill, the process, the challenge, but always the fun. That’s what makes the cans addictive.  

Big shout out to everyone who shared their stories and showed me pieces of their world. Out of respect for their anonymity, I cannot mention names, but I am grateful for everything that has been shared, and I’m excited to keep learning more.

#GreekGraffiti #GreekHiphop taken in Greece by @moa_in_2026
7
3 months ago
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