Tasting Wine

Clos de La Vierge – Le Carré de Peès – 2023
#alternativeapril

My turn today, and I’m taking you to the appellation of Jurançon, tucked into the foothills of the Pyrenees, to focus on Gros Manseng. Jurançon tends to fly under the radar, but you may know it for its Manseng varieties and for passerillage—where grapes shrivel on the vine, concentrating sugars for the production of sweet wines. Today, however, this is an excellent Jurançon Sec, and arguably an even more compelling expression of the region.

Deep yellow in the glass with golden accents.

The nose is so frisky. There’s an immediate, alluring floral sweetness—acacia blossom and wildflowers—that slightly masks the seriousness of the wine beneath. Orange, grapefruit and white peach bring breadth of fruit, before a grassy, peppery rocket note cuts through.

The palate leans into ripe citrus fruits. Lip-smacking grapefruit on entry is joined by a keen blast of minerality and a subtle, almost saline bitterness. Those sweet florals balance things beautifully, creating a real sense of tension across the palate.

Medium (+) body with high acidity. That acidity is a bit of a reckoning—powerful, sharp, and driving everything forward with energy. The alcohol is noticeable too at 14.5%, adding to the texture and giving a slightly waxy, coating feel.

Florals, citrus, minerality, acidity, texture—this wine isn’t lacking in complexity or intrigue. A proper wine of discovery from a region that remains criminally overlooked. Cannot recommend this enough if you fancy an unoaked white that’s a bit of a wolf in sheep’s clothing.

#jurançon #france #wine #winereview