5 months ago
568
32
Posted On: June 14th 2026, 07:22 am
BEAUTY IS IN THE EYE OF THE BEHOLDER-when the surf isn't picture perfect..
I was brought up in a small surf community nr Brighton on the south coast of England. There, we had waves that were mostly generated by howling winds, rarely groundswell, creating choppy, onshore, conditions, but it's all we had.
This did, however, create a tight-knit surf community, as passionate about riding waves as you could get.
Years later, I made the move to Newquay.
I'll never forget the sheer awe, stepping off the bus, as I gazed upon the crystal clear water and white sand, a far cry from the tar covered pebbled beaches and murky waters of the English Channel.
I still to this day some 35 odd yrs later, retain that feeling of stoke and gratefulness of the waves.
When many 'surfers' are surf checking and walking away, deeming the surf not good enough, you'll find me running down the hill, with my stomach full of butterflies, anticipation and wonder, that I'm able to 'get in' and harvest some of that stoke.
I got in everyday last week, whilst many were 'unsurfed'.
I rode my surfboard, coffin lid, bellyboard, and burger tray. One of those was in 3ft howling onshores at Fistral, and it was probably the one I took the most from strangely. I pretty much had the beach to myself, caught a bunch of good rides, long bowly faces, fast high lines upon deceptively clean walls, it's out there.
All that exercise, cardio, and movement is all credit in the health bank, and it's great to make the most of the light evenings (the hours start to go back, a week today)😫
Anyway, what im trying to say is, drop the expectations, don't worry what you look like, grab a surfcraft that allows you to go surf, stay surf fit, and stoked. Tap into it. If it's moving, make the most of it, it could go flat for ages.
We have family here from North Carolina right now, my wife's god daughter Emily and her fella Ryder. They surf luckily, so it's real fun to show them our town.
Seeing them eat their 1st pasty, visit our beaches, meet our people, they love it here.
Also, the shop's been busier than expected. So a big thank you to everyone who came in this week 🙏 🙌
Have a great week everyone
Stevo⚡️⚡️
I was brought up in a small surf community nr Brighton on the south coast of England. There, we had waves that were mostly generated by howling winds, rarely groundswell, creating choppy, onshore, conditions, but it's all we had.
This did, however, create a tight-knit surf community, as passionate about riding waves as you could get.
Years later, I made the move to Newquay.
I'll never forget the sheer awe, stepping off the bus, as I gazed upon the crystal clear water and white sand, a far cry from the tar covered pebbled beaches and murky waters of the English Channel.
I still to this day some 35 odd yrs later, retain that feeling of stoke and gratefulness of the waves.
When many 'surfers' are surf checking and walking away, deeming the surf not good enough, you'll find me running down the hill, with my stomach full of butterflies, anticipation and wonder, that I'm able to 'get in' and harvest some of that stoke.
I got in everyday last week, whilst many were 'unsurfed'.
I rode my surfboard, coffin lid, bellyboard, and burger tray. One of those was in 3ft howling onshores at Fistral, and it was probably the one I took the most from strangely. I pretty much had the beach to myself, caught a bunch of good rides, long bowly faces, fast high lines upon deceptively clean walls, it's out there.
All that exercise, cardio, and movement is all credit in the health bank, and it's great to make the most of the light evenings (the hours start to go back, a week today)😫
Anyway, what im trying to say is, drop the expectations, don't worry what you look like, grab a surfcraft that allows you to go surf, stay surf fit, and stoked. Tap into it. If it's moving, make the most of it, it could go flat for ages.
We have family here from North Carolina right now, my wife's god daughter Emily and her fella Ryder. They surf luckily, so it's real fun to show them our town.
Seeing them eat their 1st pasty, visit our beaches, meet our people, they love it here.
Also, the shop's been busier than expected. So a big thank you to everyone who came in this week 🙏 🙌
Have a great week everyone
Stevo⚡️⚡️
Comments (32)
3 months agonew.commodity
We surf the southwick over here 🙌 and hang in hangleton! Great meeting you the other day !
5 months agomerchantsandthesea
Only the wisest will get this deep knowledge of what the purest form of surfing has been like this since God placed Adam and Eve in Paradise 🏝️
5 months agokeelhauled_
Best surfers surf all conditions. When its clean pumping you will have the fitness and the reward
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