River and lake surfers have an edge most people overlook.
@gnarcheologist explains why lake surfers get so sharp at reading messy, crossed-up conditions, and why river surfers who live hours from the coast end up with perfect technique.
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Adam Tory of Hurricane Surf Company (@hurricanesurfcompany) presents a unique perspective shaped by two very different coastlines. He learned to surf in Tofino before relocating to the inconsistent waters of Nova Scotia, and now coaches surfers of every level while competing for the Canadian national longboard team. We get into why river and lake surfers often out-surf people who live right on the coast, how Adam breaks down a backside cutback on a longboard step by step, why he's built his whole approach around surfing bad waves instead of only waiting for good ones, and how the Basis Paddle Trainer helped him stay conditioned through a foot injury heading into a tough contest season. We also talk about what separates top international longboarders from everyone else, how climbing and skateboarding carry over into surfing, and go through a rapid fire round where Adam builds his ideal surfer.
Chapters
1:16 Adam Tory of Hurricane Surf Co.
2:11 Nova Scotia's Wild Seasonal Swings
3:47 From London Skateboarder to Tofino Surfer
6:06 What Makes Tofino's Beach Breaks So Consistent
9:12 Building Skills on Tofino's Closeout Beach Breaks
12:03 Moving to Nova Scotia: Quantity vs. Quality
14:58 Competing for Team Canada & the Nationals Barrier
16:03 Contest Nerves and a Lesson from a Lake Surfer
19:58 "Crappy Waves Make Good Surfers"
25:44 Reading Waves & the Hunter Mindset
31:03 Paddle Power: The Overlooked Fundamental
36:49 Pan Am Games & Lessons from Elite Surfers
45:53 The River & Lake Surfer Cheat Code
51:58 Longboard Footwork & the Backside Cutback
1:00:50 Cross-Training Secrets, Rapid Fire & Wrap-Up
Comment POD for the full podcast episode! 🏄🏻♂️🏄🏻♀️
#surf #surfing #surftraining #learntosurf🏄♂️: @gnarcheologist
🎥:
@yuan.legault