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Milo Forbes

@setbymilo

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Showcasing sets I’m proud of
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A lot of change in recent months. The process of becoming a part of the @vw_gyms crew has given me a lot to reflect on and enjoy. Fresh creative spaces to experiment in, new people to ideate with, and the sandbox to implement many of the concepts I’ve been thinking through for a while.

I’ve been playing around a lot with 1) flow in boulders, especially at easier difficulties, and 2) challenging end positions as opposed to start positions—creating moves that feel easy to execute, but hard to stick. I think this white problem I set on our comp wall for the opening set of VW Seattle’s new facility, 4.5, takes the podium for my personal favorite of this category.

Thank you to @rocknsunshine for the help in finalizing this boulder, and for the mentorship over the last couple months. taken in Vertical World Seattle by @setbymilo

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3 months ago

The feeling when every aspect of a boulder you’ve set comes together to perfectly test your capabilities is honestly unparalleled.

I set the core rose move sequence of this boulder a couple weeks back at 60° on @boardworks_climbing’s 12x12 spray Tension board. I’m hoping to finalize and publish it when I return, but in the meantime I thought I’d try my luck at setting a similar version of it on our 45° wall over at @uplift_climbing. It can often be hard to transfer movement from the board to a commercial wall (or even vice versa), but I thought this turned out amazingly well. Preceded by a cruxy, explosive heel and shoulder sequence, and followed up by a dauntingly droppable finish, I’m really happy with this bloc!

Props to @brendan.perdue for slamming the FA.

It’s only up for another week, so go get it.

V10

#bouldering #routesetting taken in Uplift Climbing by @setbymilo

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7 months ago

Up there as one of, if not my favorite, sets I’ve ever put on our 45° wall at @uplift_climbing.

I’ve spent a long time thinking about the concepts on display here, finally deciding to experiment with them the other week and this is the result. While not perfect- the ergonomics could be improved (it’s imprecise and somewhat painful) and the critical move is unfortunately breakable- I’m overall really happy with how this turned out.

I don’t think I’ve ever been this thoroughly obsessed with working and projecting a gym boulder, and I’m excited to apply all the lessons I’ve learned from this one into the next iteration somewhere down the road. I only wish it were up longer so that I could fully piece it together and send it. Time to move on, however, and focus the week’s efforts on setting for our annual community competition, the Uplift Downgrade.

V11 taken in Uplift Climbing by @setbymilo

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a year ago

One of the many popular boulders at this years Downgrade! taken in Uplift Climbing by @setbymilo

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4 months ago

Pretty stoked with this recent set on our 60° wall over at @uplift_climbing. A really satisfying combination of high-tension, compression based movement with some traditional coordination mixed in to mix up the pacing.

V8 taken in Uplift Climbing by @setbymilo

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7 months ago

Lil 45° classic sloper tension problem with our @expressionholds

V9 taken in Uplift Climbing by @setbymilo

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9 months ago

Been playing around with trying to make this kind of move work at a level that isn’t absolutely absurd. Haven’t quite figured out the intricacies of dynoing into it from an established position on the wall, so this weird, janky 4-point flying start we ended up with will have to do for now.

Quite happy with how subtle the movement on this turned out. I found that a small, horizontal jump into the start from a static position on the ground works really well, unless you’re @brendan.perdue and you just run into it head on and breeze it 😭😭

Come get it at @uplift_climbing

V9 taken in Uplift Climbing by @setbymilo

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a year ago

One of my favorite boulders I’ve set in recent memory with this amazing set of new @expressionholds over at @uplift_climbing. I’ve been so caught up in setting really difficult, physical boulders that I wanted to take the time to create something delicate and precise that would feel difficult at first, but become extremely fluid as you learned the movement. I think I succeeded quite well at that goal here- really happy with how this turned out!

V7 taken in Uplift Climbing by @setbymilo

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a year ago

Precision compression boulder with a committing finishing move for our latest set on the 15° at @uplift_climbing.

V8 taken in Uplift Climbing by @setbymilo

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2 years ago

A secondary iteration of the slab-style movement I began experimenting with several weeks ago. Harder, more precise, and significantly more sustained in both technical and physical demand compared to the Blue V8 that preceded it. I’m really happy with how this boulder turned out.

Props to the few people that have been able to complete it thus far. For those still looking to try/work it, come get it before it comes down next Tuesday!

Thanks to @ellymcclane for the support forerunning this thing, and to @uplift_climbing for giving me the space to experiment and create so much.

V9 taken in Uplift Climbing by @setbymilo

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2 years ago

I’ve been a setter at @uplift_climbing for almost a year now, and while I’ve certainly grown in many ways, I do find that I set problems that fall well within my comfort zone of movement and style. Technical, no doubt, but often powerful moves on our more overhanging walls. I find this kind of movement extremely fun, but it means that I, not only as a climber, but as a setter, tend to stay away from slab-style climbing.

About a week or two ago I decided I wanted to try my hand at setting a delicate, precise, and footwork intensive boulder on our 5° wall. I wanted to spend as much time as possible with this one bloc, with the goal of creating a series of moves that would require the climber to be as intentional as possible, where any small, additional, or unintended movement would throw the climber off the wall. With that in mind, I think I succeeded rather well. It’s almost impossible to muscle through this boulder, at least for me. I love the sheer amount of focus on footwork and body awareness that is required as you move through this rather delicate sequence. That being said, with more time, I would’ve enjoyed tinkering with the final moves of the boulder in an attempt to not only make them harder, but a) more delicate and droppable, and b) harder than the initial sequence to create a feeling of progressive difficulty.

All things considered, I’m really stoked with how this one turned out. Looking forward to watching people interact with this set. This boulder will be up for two weeks, come and get it!

V8 taken in Uplift Climbing by @setbymilo

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2 years ago

Officially my favorite boulder I’ve ever set here @uplift_climbing. With travel and our new setting rotation, it’s been a while since I’ve set on our 45° wall. I came in to our setting day last Friday with so many ideas for a mega boulder I wanted to put together. With the help of a guest setter to reduce the overall workload, and the additional benefit that my other boulders were set quickly and easily, I was able to dedicate nearly the entire day to setting, forerunning, and adjusting this boulder. Till, finally, the end result you see here was produced. This may very well be the first boulder I’ve ever set with which I have zero qualms. I love the movement here, the challenge, and the feeling you get climbing this bloc. The flow here is so powerful, yet simultaneously so precise and technical, and I’m overall incredibly stoked with how this line turned out.

Come get this thing before it comes down in two weeks!

Thanks to @kaisull222 and @lillian.germick for filming my process, which allowed me to make this edit!

V10 taken in Uplift Climbing by @setbymilo

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2 years ago