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Dr. Dillon Elliott DC, BSc Kin

@boulderingbreakdown

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Squamish, BC 🏔🌊🧗🏻🪨🚴🏻‍♂️
Climbing Injury Consultations | Remote Available
Detailed Strength Assessments | Coaching
DM with any questions!

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Some 9s from my time is Squamish:

Bee Professor
Big Chicken
Mr. Bigglesworth Low

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Proof of life

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A really nice climb at The Glen. Hard V6 in my opinion, conditions really matter, and I may have made it tougher by the line I took.

Maybe the line just suited my body and style, giving me the send. Managed to do it pretty static, which I am stoked about. Not many slopers like this around here, a solid test piece for feeling the right spot on the glassiest slopers of the Glen.

I was inspired by beta from @boulderingbreakdown videos. Tried to follow the line in the book, but every climb ends up a little arbitrary.

March 28, 2025

Guidebook: V6
Monk's take: V6+

#bouldering #rockclimbing #outdoorclimbing #niagaraglen #niagara #v6 #boulderinglife #climbingcommunity #climbersofinstagram #crashpad #sendit #climbmore #adventureculture #climbingvideos #climbingpassion

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How mindset shapes success in climbing and rehab?
Q&A with Dillon from @boulderingbreakdown in our site

Ph @nicohormazabal

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Ahh man. This year was special in more than one way. Finally FINALLY my closest climbing partner and one of my best friends was able to enter Canada. Every single trip I wished he could come and share the experiences with me. I felt pretty horrible about it most times. Knowing I abandoned going anywhere else to do this. But it is all in the past now. @michael_bienick has arrived.

And a close second was another year spent developing with @djviernes. Idk. I don’t think I really need to go into details about him. The dudes a special person and let’s hope his Nooks trips aren’t over because the film is over. 😂

But dang, my Grand Rapids family of climbers has really taken the Nooks to heart. Becoming a staple for all the boulderers on the west side of Michigan. It’s very special and cool to be able to share it with them. Thank you. Y’all are the best. This ride is wild. I’m not sure how we got to this point. But it’s special and will last a long time in thanks to everyone.

#TheNooksBouldering

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Climbing Part 1
#TheNooksBouldering

1) Haymaker V3 - FA @height_mann
2) The Astronomer V5 - @nflagadin
3) Gutless V5 - @sarobi_nson
4) Rise V9 - @mgauthclimbs
5) Deadline V10 - @boulderingbreakdown
6) Ruthless V10 - @michael_bienick
7) Gutless V5 - @boulderingbreakdown
8) Friendship V8 - @michael_bienick
9) State of the Art V6 - @team_backyard
10) Remembering Sunday - V2 - Unknown

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I can’t begin to tell you how lucky I am for this place. The opportunity I’ve been given to share and grow a climbing area has been astounding to me. The friends from different states and provinces I have made and shared this space with grows every year. Side by side with the Nooks growing reputation. It’s astonishing what this journey brings. Every single year brings more visitors during NOOKEND and throughout the year. I’m truly blessed to be a part of this with my Grand Rapids family. More on that in another post though

#TheNooksBouldering

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Dillon taking care of his skin minutes before sending his project that day.

Photos @nicohormazabal

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THE DEVELOPER - Teaser 2
Premieres @wealthytheatre August 7th

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Because most haven’t read this paper. Here’s the study Criteria Breakdown 4

“Abrahangs vs Max Hangs”

This retrospective study pulled finger strength and training data from Crimpd app users between Sept 2022 and Dec 2023.

To be included, climbers had to:
✔️ Complete two finger strength tests (1RM on a 20mm edge) within 4–16 weeks.
✔️ Log a minimum training volume for one or both protocols during that window:

Abrahangs: ≥3 sessions/week, not daily

Max Hangs: ≥0.5 sessions/week

Users were then sorted into:
🔹 Climbing Only (didn’t meet minimum training thresholds)
🔹 Abrahangs Only (high Abrahangs, low Max Hangs)
🔹 Max Hangs Only (high Max Hangs, low Abrahangs)
🔹 Both (met thresholds for both protocols)

❌ Excluded:

Users who trained but didn’t log both pre- and post-tests

Users with less than 30 total Abrahangs sessions total

Outliers based on change in strength-to-weight ratio (via ROUT test)

⚠️ Important: No data were collected on total climbing volume, prior training history, or actual load used during Abrahangs (self-selected intensity). This makes direct comparisons tricky.

The study’s “strength” lies in its sample size—but don’t ignore the real-world variability and lack of control over who did what, and why.

This is not a researched rehab protocol. Tag a healthcare provider who works with climbers.

#ClimbingScience #RockClimbingTraining #HangboardTraining #FingerStrength #Abrahangs #MaxHangs #ClimbingPerformance #CrimpdApp #ClimbingResearch #ClimbingData #SportsScience #FingerTraining #ClimbingInjuries #StrengthToWeight #ClimbingPhysiology #LoadManagement #ClimberStrength #TendonAdaptation #CrimpStrength #ClimbingStudy

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Hey y’all! It’s Boulder Replica reveal time!! 🤓🗿🤘Thank you to everyone who participated, y’all are CRUSHERS!

Did you happen to guess… *drum rolls*… Life O’Reilley SDS (V7) at the Niagara Glen?! We have been told that our version is easier than the original… Maybe it’s soft, or maybe you’re just STRONG 💪

Congrats to Jeremy Kam (@jeremy.klimbs) for winning a day pass to use for himself or someone of his choice! ✅

Congrats to Jeremy Yang (@_jeremyyang) for winning a snack of his choice (come get your yerba boi!) 🥤

Thanks to Dillon (@boulderingbreakdown) for letting us use his send vid of the problem! If you haven’t seen this legend’s videos on YouTube, go check them out!!

We’re leaving the Life O’Reilley replica on the challenge wall for a couple more weeks, and then it comes down for the setting clinic on the 23rd.

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Three perspectives on rock climbing:

Starting a new activity without a reference, friend, or mentor can be challenging. While technology and social media offer valuable learning resources, they also make it hard to filter information for our personal needs. Sharing stories from others’ experiences is crucial for improving our own. We will continue to create stories and actions that inspire conversations and bring people together.

Full Q&As 🔗 Link in bio.

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