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Favorites album Spring/Summer 2026 🤙🏽 ❤️

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Amazing time at the Malibu Classic @malibusurfingassociation this weekend - thank you to @moosehuerta for inviting me to surf for the east coast surf club. 🔥🔥

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long days long boards 💙

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Birthday surf session followed by an outdoor shower. Doubling up on watery sources of joy.

It’s Cancer birthday season. HBD to all my fellow crabs. Hope you find your own versions of liquid bliss.

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I was about 10 years old. Took a walk down the beach with my Mom at Robert Moses Field 5 while the red flags were up. There was large surf and nobody was allowed to swim despite the perfect beach weather. Looking back, there must have been a hurricane offshore. As we walked toward the western end of the field, the small black dots way out in the ocean came into view... They were surfers.

Now, at the time I was an avid boogie boarder; but my dream was to get into surfing. I knew I wanted it. I literally grew up down the block from Rick's Surf Shop. I vividly remember stopping on the beach that day, looking at my mom, pointing to the surfers and telling her: "That's going to be me one day".

I had been asking for a surfboard for a while, but a board and wetsuit was a big financial commitment for my parents at the time, especially for something "I didn't know if I was going to like it". I was bummed, but I understood so I just kept saving.

Finally, the day came... My Dad took me to Rick's for a surfboard. It was a 7'2" Go-Surf funboard, tri fin setup with a few green hibiscus flowers stamped around the deck. I WAS IN AMPED!!

Fast forward a year or two, some bad pushes, a ton of pop-ups, lots of paddling, lots of really bad sessions and pretty much all whitewater rides. But then... Something happened. Specifically, it was on a family trip to Montauk at the Atlantic Terrace Motel where we'd always stay. It was a 2-3' day with the clearest water and smooth conditions. I took off on an angle and started to go down the line on this long, lined up left. That was MY moment. THE moment that changed everything. I WAS ACTUALLY SURFING!

I was hooked and my life was altered forever. From that one singular point forward almost everything I did centered around surfing. At this stage in my life, I have no idea where I would be without it. It has led me to find my community whom I consider my East End family, my photography, my career in science education, my Summers giving surf lessons, and even to Montauk where I have worked so hard to call my home. Surfing has given me so much and for that I am eternally grateful 🙏🏻

Happy International Surfing Day!!

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Oh, Malibu. You’re like a boyfriend that wasn’t The One, but was a very good one. Hard to believe I moved away almost exactly three years ago, to the day. (Feels more like a decade…or a week?) It was so good to touch down here in the midst of book tour, see some familiar sights, sit in a familiar spot, take in the light.

People keep asking me if this trip makes me want to move back to CA. The truth is, no. At least, not right now. I miss my West Coast tribe of people a lot. And I miss the quality of surf, the proximity to hiking, the exuberant farmer’s market produce, the sense of road trip-ready adventure that imbued my life here. Despite all of that, California isn’t calling to me in that way.

Just because a relationship doesn’t last forever doesn’t make it a failure. And just because Malibu didn’t turn into my forever home, the destination that claimed me as its own, I am still enormously appreciative of the time I spent in this beautiful place.

I have a box of journals in a closet back in Sag Harbor marked “California.” It’s a decade of my mindful writing all in one spot. I haven’t been tempted to dive back into those pages since I left, but this stopover made me curious. Maybe I’ll take a peek when I get home. There could be a whopping big bonfire of pages at the end of it.

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Coach Ev in his sacred space. Surfing and its craft is as deep as you make it.

Photo: @celesteandrade.831

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@lamisionsurf beauty crafted and shaped by @thesurfcontinuum Coach Ev in Baja California, close to his family roots. This 9’0 pintail twin was glassed by a BC local named Mariano. The artwork is hand painted by Coach Ev’s wife. So much thought, love, care and Ev’s passion went into shaping this board! Honored to be part of @lamisionsurf and a student of @thesurfcontinuum. Blessed to enjoy its first wave alongside Coach Ev. 🤙🏼🌊🤙🏼#kookkast #surfboards #longboards

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Water time without structure doesn’t compound. It repeats and risks locking in bad habits.

Improvement begins when you’re clear in what you’re actually working on.

Leave a comment👇 and we’ll send you a PDF with 10 Ways to Improve Your Surfing.

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Build from the bottom.

Leave a comment and we’ll send you our PDF - 10 Ways to Improve Your Surfing

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From every angle 96

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Everyone wants to surf. Not many want to put the time and work in to get there. 95

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