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Lukas Wrede

@lost_lukas

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Just living!
Rock/alpine/ice guide currently based in the northeast

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Turned 27 this week! Recently have spent some time reconnecting with my love for Tuolumne (and playing around on rocks!). After a few years away from climbing and scrambling, it’s felt good to bring some familiar movement back into the body, come back to places that feel like home, and frolic in the meadows. Here’s to another year of never knowing where life will take you!

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Growing up, I never did any type of racing (or mountain biking!). I started learning how to mountain bike a few years ago, and since then, I’ve surprised myself with how much I’ve enjoyed racing bikes! This was an especially fun event. Huge thanks to @semba.bike for putting it on, and to @mtbchickdotcom for sharing your racing tips and feeding me on course! And of course to the lovely ladies I got to ride with!

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Still dreaming about Patagonia and the epic trip @tash_boy @matt__paulsen @lost_lukas and I had!! Fun to go through the different videos we took and put a little reel together!! #patagoniaclimbing #alpineclimbing #wimbytown #austriansloveus #guillauhack

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I first bought @patagoniavertical climbing guide to the Chalten region in 2017 at Teton mountaineering, on a hot, crowded, summer afternoon. At the time I was fresh out of undergrad, and had just left the winds having climbed wolf’s head with @muzzyhooks our first real alpine rock route ever. Climbing in Chalten felt so far away physically and mentally. The land of giants! A place for great climbers to go! And here we are spending 16hrs epicing on the east ridge of wolfs head, the classic 5.6 route.

Over the last 9 years since that summer, I’ve looked at the guidebook from time to time wondering if I was ready, if I had what it takes to climb in this great range, never to sure. In the meantime, I continued to grow and climb throughout the west. Learning from some incredible partners how to climb with style and intention, laugh and love, when to put the foot on the gas and when to take a step back. From granite walls in the Whitney Zone with @johnnylomas and @leogoesger , ice pillars in Cody with @samfromflatland @theonlymattward , Teton romps with @frazhur and @maxfield_eland , and Zion wide with @connor.nash_ and @tash_boy I wouldn’t be here without some amazing people along the way!!

This trip to Patagonia meant a lot for me. It felt like the culmination of the decade long dream that I doubted would come to fruition. I think we can all be our worst critics. The voice in our heads doubting we know enough, are fit enough, can do the things we see on instagram, etc. sometimes we have to cast the doubts away and believe that we have what it takes.

Thanks to @Matt and @tashi for pushing me to believe, for making this trip happen, and being some of the best friends on the block!! Guillaumet might never have as good a hack again! Take me back to the land of wine and empanadas! Each day since we’ve left I’ve missed the Don Galle hangs (and the Domo Tiramisu) more and more.

Here’s to believing, living life with intention, and remembering to laugh along the way, one step at a time. #patagoniaclimbing #chalten #rafaeljuárez #mermoz #guillaument

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About a week ago @throck_monster @tash_boy @lost_lukas and I grabbed another small weather Windows and hiked into the torre valley to climb Ajuga Rafael Juarez. @lost_lukas and I teamed up to climb Artebelleza while Tashi and Peter got on the Piola Anchor. Encountering full on mixed climbing conditions on the lower pitches and icy cracks in a few of the upper pitches, Lukas and I made slow progress upward, reaching the summit around 7:30pm. With winds picking up and a storm coming in, we started what would become a very involved descent. We got our rope stuck and had to cut it in half (RIP Lukas' very nice rope) on the 3rd rappel. What ensued after was a very slow but ultimately safe all night descent. We got back to camp at 4am, slept 3 hours and then made the 6 hour hike out of the valley in the rain and wind.
The fierce beauty of these mountains is truly something to behold and admire with reverence. I'm grateful to have been able to sample and learn from the power of these mountains.

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Some favorite shots taken on my first point & shoot, It got stolen over the summer while I was camping. I’m feeling a bit nostalgic, but I guess that’s the beauty of shooting film⚡️

1. Beach in Icho Cruz
2. Martina in Navigli
3. Somewhere on Lake Como
4. Somewhere on Lake Como with Realayah
5. Third wheeling with my brother & his wifey
6. Testing with Yoni
7. Expired film with Kennedy at Hagen Creative
8. My south of France essentials
9. Hotties visiting me in Amsterdam
10. Solo date in Murano
11. Pregnant bestie
12. Snake on set
13. Wholesome night in Córdoba with Valentina
14. Drinks at Cafe Lurcat
15. Zach & Laura painting their nursery
16. Portraits of my uncle for his artist portfolio
17. Sawyer & I at his film premiere
18. Leila in my mom’s overalls
19. On set with Zach & Nakia
20. Getting lost on Marco Island

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After what seems to have been 100 years of ice climbing, i finally did the AMGA Ice Instructor course last week. I really enjoyed both the instructors and my fellow participants. A friend had recently given me a news letter from 1994 that mentioned my guiding pinnacle gully. I wish I had gotten more training earlier in my career! Better late then never:) Thank you to the entire I5 IIC 25 crew! My only complaint is you all hike uphill too fast!!!

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Just a little scrapbook of my Northeast/Quebec road trip. Ice skating on lakes, ice climbing in downtown Montreal, ice fishing out the back door, road biking through the snowy streets of Montreal, dog sledding through meadows and forests, a steamy forest sauna, a cozy cabin, downtown Quebec City & meeting up with 4 good friends from 4 entirely different parts of my life/the world!! (Realized I didn’t take many pics with everyone).

I had only briefly explored the northeast and I had never been to eastern Canada so when everything aligned and the fact that my car was on the east coast I figured I just had to do this road trip. And I’m so happy I got to explore all the winter activities of this region!! And thankful for friends who take me in, show me all the fun of their hometown, & most importantly feed me :)))

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grainy & expired moments from last year 💗

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I’ll try and keep this short. I got to bishop on August 24th of 2021 with the intention of hanging out through the first half of winter to climb boulders and then return to LA where I was before the pandemic. Then I made friends. A winter turned into a summer to go explore in the mountains. I made more friends. A summer turned into another winter and I figured I should probably give snowboarding a good try. I made more friends and grew closer to all the friends I had already made and the new ones too. I kept saying I was gonna leave but couldn’t seem to do it. On Saturday October 19th I drove my last load of belongings to San Diego to go to school and completely change the trajectory of my life yet again. I’m excited about this new chapter but I need my bishop people to know that I love you all very much and I can’t thank you enough for taking me in and loving me back. I never imagined I’d do the things I did or see the things I saw up there and it was all of you, none of it was my doing. There’s probably 100 other people not pictured that made my life better these past few years. Thank you thank you thank you. All of you. I’ll be around. If you find yourself in San Diego you have a friend and a place to crash. Love y’all.

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It feels like a cookies and cream treat for my feet,
stable smooth and sweet.
I access high praise from my internal critic,
high places where my bird brothers roost.
I enjoy the sounds of the gear clanking and
the shapes my body makes to complete the puzzle
And the mystery of slowly unveiling a route
move by move
In the dance of fear, joy, and reward.

The deep trust in my partner
balancing swapping lead,
the give and recieve.
The deep trust in my feet,
and my knees.
OH the far reaches this body can take me.
I push hard against the earth and feel held,
a deeper sense of belonging.
As I wedge my body,
and get the cuddles I have been longing.

I do wonder,
What did I do to deserve this?
To have so much life to give
that I can dangle it off a cliff.

Rock, with your blessing
I will carry forth your lessons.

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Some clips from our recent guides trainings in the Sierra with @international_alpine_guides. Come climb with our highly talented guide staff this summer. We are also hiring for year round and seasonal positions starting this Winter in Mammoth Lakes and Truckee CA.
DM me for details.
@international_alpine_guides @mammutna @lost_lukas @findmeinthealpine @ethanjudd208 @mikesmith986 @daniel_and_nico @shapedbysummits @grivel @featheredfriends1972 @libmtn
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#climbtrekskitheworld #mammutna #weareifmga #guidetraining #mountaineering #mountains #climbing #hiking #mountain #nature #mountainlife #adventure #trekking #mountainview #landscape #mountainlovers #travel #alpinism #mountaineer

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