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mosshalladay

@mosshalladay

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@mosshalladay and I are working on a mega new crag at the Red River Gorge. It has 70 feet of overhanging climbing capped by a 30 foot, near completely horizontal roof with epic features. We have five lines completed up to the roof and this is the first route going out the outrageous finish. Stoked beyond measure on this find.
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Echo Lakes is one of the premier locations to climb during the Fall in Tahoe. The routes high up on Flagpole peak offer incredible views, stunning climbing, and a nice airy positioning. There’s a few ways to do it, climb the 5.8 approach slab and spend the day cragging on the second pitch routes or take them all the way to the summit for a multipitch adventure. Airwalk 5.11a which is the second and third photo on has incredible positioning and climbing, definitely not to be missed. The first edition of the Lake Tahoe Sport Climbing guidebook is getting close to completion and we are aiming to get it to the printers early this winter for a spring 2027 release.
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Echo Lakes season is finally approaching. It was rad to revisit these routes @tahoeboulderingguides, Mike, and Squeezo and I established a few years ago on Flagpole peak. It had been a while since I had last climbed them. Climbing them again, I was reminded just how much fun they are — honestly, even more fun than I remembered. Dave and I were able to show @lost_goat_media and @john95724 around, and it made for a great day. The climbing is every bit as good as the photos look! I hope some of you get the chance to make it out this fall.
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Another classic test piece added to the amazing Coldstream area. Bloodlust went from an abandoned project to an instant classic today. This route is extremely challenging from beginning to end and has wildly varied climbing throughout. Bring all the skills for this one. Boulder problems, techy crack, hardcore crimping, sloper compression. This one has it all. It was an awesome day with a super rad crew!
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Cascade Wall is home to some of Tahoe’s hardest and most impressive sport climbing, with much of the cliff featuring routes in the 5.13 range and harder. Perched high above Lake Tahoe, it also offers one of the most spectacular settings of any crag in the basin. @tahoeboulderingguides and @mosshalladay recently established Dread Meridian (5.12b), a new route that adds to the small collection of 5.12s available on the wall. Located two routes left of Treebeard, Dread Meridian begins with technical climbing before entering a steep, overhanging dihedral that culminates with powerful laybacking near the top. Equipped with modern glue-in bolts and featuring the exceptional stone Cascade Wall is known for, Dread Meridian offers climbers an opportunity to experience one of Tahoe’s premier cliffs at a more accessible grade. Make sure to check it out next time you head up there! #TahoeClimbing #LakeTahoeClimbing #CascadeWall #SportClimbing RouteDevelopment FirstAscent ClimbTahoe TahoeGuidebook
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If you’re heading up to Cascade Cliff you might want to check out a nice new line I just put up with @mosshalladay a few days ago. It’s around 12b and it’s the second route left from “Treebeard.” It’s easily identified by the glue in bolts. Stick clip then climb the obvious overhanging corner, encountering some fairly tough layback moves near the top.
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A few weeks ago we finally wrapped up a big rebolting project at the Pie Shop. It took a few seasons and the end result is close to 20 climbs with brand new hardware. Almost every route that matters between “Roadhouse Blues” and “Headjammer” has been fixed. That’s it for now, although there are likely plenty of routes on the right side of the cliff that will need improvements sometime soon. Big thanks to the ASCA for supplying the hardware and everyone else that helped with the work. Enjoy the routes! #asca
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Metal Blade 5.12a was first done in 1988 by the legendary Dan Osman. For those who have seen the Masters of Stone videos, you’ll remember him soloing this route. The bolts have been replaced on the route and anchors have been added. The dyno on this is rad and hopefully people will enjoy this classic Osman route!
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Seven and Seven (11c/d) — Distillery Wall, Luther Rock. ~110 feet of climbing on one of the more visually striking lines in the South Lake Tahoe zone and fantastic for the grade. Thoughtful bolt spacing keeps things engaging—sporty by modern standards, but true to the character of the wall. The steep approach is well worth the hike as the views are incredible.
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Another great trip to The Red. After wading through poison ivy, copperheads and ticks we managed to put up 9 high quality first ascents. Four 5.12s, four 5.11’s and a 5.10. Not bad for the chuffer crew consisting of myself, Dave Schwisow and @mosshalladay
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Another nice new arete at Pie Shop just left of BT Express. Called this one “Hold the Line.” Even though the photo makes it look a bit wild, it’s only 5.10c with positive holds. Bolt protected with a fresh anchor. Also put new hardware on BT Express while we were there.
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A quick update on the Pie Shop. With permission from Paul Crawford, the two 5.10 routes on the left side of the Wind Pinnacle have been retrobolted and now have new anchors. Both lines are great and no longer terrifying to lead. There’s also a new techy 11b on the left arete. On the right side of the pinnacle, a previously top-roped slab now has bolts and climbs at 11a. When you reach the seam below the prominent steep arete, head left and follow the seam to keep it at 11a. For something a little harder, continue straight up the steep and engaging Arete. It goes around 11c. The base has been cleaned up and the rock on the pinnacle is excellent. We hope every one can enjoy these routes!
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