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North Cascades Mountain Guides

@ncmountainguides

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High quality professionally guided skiing and climbing in the North Cascades.
🧗‍♀️ Book climbing trips directly online!

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Could be the best drive across the Cascades ever! North Cascades Highway might make your ears pop, but the views are worth it 🏔️🏔️🏔️

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What Makes a Good Guide?

While I was a student on a program this year my instructors shared a Conrad Kain quote that was presented to us as “What Makes a Good Guide”. The quote rubbed me the wrong way and I didn’t think it was a good representation of what I believe to be an example of modern guiding. So I decided to re-work the quote highlighting the points that I thought were salient to a modern approach to guiding.

Here is the original Conrad Kain Quote first appeared in his first-person article, “Reminiscences of Seven Summers in Canada”:

“First, he should never show fear. Second, he should be courteous to all, and always give special attention to the weakest member in the party. Third, he should be witty, and able to make up a white lie if necessary, on short notice, and tell it in a convincing manner. Fourth, he should know when and how to show authority; and when the situation demands it should be able to give a good scolding to whomever deserves it.”

Here is my new rendition of it:

“First; they must have an honest self assessment. Most guides are not 5.12 rock climbers and 5.12 skiers, that is okay, know yourself, your strengths, your limitations and seek out work that fits within your own abilities.

Second; they must be courteous and supportive to not only their guests but also all other beings encountered in the mountains. When you see someone struggling on the pitch above you, offer some coaching, share some helpful beta, and/or offer to toss them a rope if they are at risk of injury.

Third; they should be radically honest and transparent about the contributing factors to decision making. Providing guests with thoughtful informed consent and challenge by choice when addressing hazards.

Fourth; Confrontational behavior and scolding should be avoided in most instances and should be reserved for only the most extreme safety concerns with immediate consequences. The guide should instead manage these interactions with an education oriented discussion. If a guide uses an assertive tone excessively it dilutes its value, whereas a seldomly used change in tone catches guests’ attention effectively conveying your concern.

Continues in comments:

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The air is starting to feel crisp, the days are getting shorter, and our first flakes of snow are starting to fall in the high mountains! It won’t be long before we find ourselves dancing through the beautiful mountains of the North Cascades!

Can’t wait to share these special moments with all the wonderful people I get to slide in snow with this year!

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The 5th annual Kulshan Cleanup was a good time as always! This year, 22 volunteers from ten different guide services and the USFS came together to give the South side of Kulshan some love. We split into three crews and cleaned up the Park Butte Lookout, Sandy Camp, and Crag View.

Among the items found:
💩 48 human poops and 3 bagged dog poops
⛺️ 1 tent bag and 2 sleeping bags
🧦 So many socks and underwear
🚬 Cigarette butts and one massive vape pen
And so much more…

Huge thanks as always to @alpineascents and @alpineinstitute for providing transportation to and from the cleanup and sponsoring some amazing awards.

Until next year…
#kulshan #mountbaker

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Very soon, the mountains will start to look like this.

#northcascades #washington #autumn #visitwashington #pnwonderland

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A cold cloudy BEST DAY EVER at Washington Pass!! Finally got to climb there! So much fun!

South Arete of SEWS. Fun adventure climb up the ridge!

Thanks @natepakula and @ncmountainguides for another awesome climb!!

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Climbing at Washington Pass is nothing short of a magical experience, which is why sharing the experience with guests is the highlight of my summer.

Picture this you wake up the @northcascadesmtnhostel , swing by the @mazamastore to pick up an espresso and danish for breakfast, before heading up to the mountains. After a beautiful hike filled with sprouting wildflowers, mountain goats, and stunning views, you find yourself surrounded by some of the finest alpine rock in the state. You begin ascending the beautiful granite, swimming up one of the many alluring cracks and big alpine features that extend into the sky. Before you know it you are hundreds of feet in the air, appreciating the view that only those who have ventured to climb have the privilege to experience. You sit in awe, appreciating the rugged landscape, surrounded by the impressive granite spires and alpine peaks that fill the range. On your way back down you feel that sense of bliss only found from that perfect balance of adventure, support, and connection to the natural world. After a short stop at the river for a dip you boogie down to the @mazamapub to celebrate over a beverage reveling in the magic of the Methow Valley.

Come visit us in the Methow to experience the magic!

@ncmountainguides

#rockclimbing #alpine #mazama #washington #washingtonpass

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Way way out there on Mt Logan! #northcascadesnationalpark #pnwonderland #mountaineering #ncmountainguides #washingtonstate

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Back where it all started for me as a mountain guide.

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It’s been a wildly busy Summer, filled with lots of big adventures in the mountains with great folks!

Here are a few of the highlights! So grateful for everyone who has been apart of it!

@ncmountainguides
@blackdiamond

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Back in April, I went on a week-long ski traverse of the Ortler range in Italy. @kerr.ka, @sarahbrace123, @denisebftw, Sean, Lava and I were joined by @ncmountainguides, @butterfieldguiding and @jeff_ward_guide. Over the next 7 days we formed a little ski family. Nothing bonds you quicker than sharing dorm-style bunk rooms in busy European huts.

We started our traverse with a few nights at Rifugio Pizzini, a quaint red-shuttered alpine hut tucked below the huge slopes of Gran Zebrù Mountain. The first few days, we adapted quickly to hut life, skiing from the hut, stopping in for a hot lunch, and relaxing in the afternoons. The skiing was challenging, with the spring warming creating extremely ‘punchy’ conditions, but the group’s vibes were high; it was hard not to enjoy ourselves in the beautiful setting. Pizzini spoiled us with arguably the best dessert of the trip delivered on night 1: a delcious tiramisu!

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Huge props to the Borup family for all their hard work this week romping up and down Kulshan and Shuksan. We lucked out with (mostly) stellar weather, beautiful camping, and excellent company. Until next time.

#northcascades #amga1979 #mountainguide #pnw #alpinism

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