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CRAGS

@norcalcrags

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The Sacramento Area Climbers’ Coalition - A Local Climbing Organization (LCO) affiliated with the @accessfund
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Conditions Report!!! #youmustgoup #localguides #climbing #loversleapguides #climbtahoe
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Don’t forget - you’ve only got a few more days left (until September 30th) to take advantage of 15% off Rocknasium apparel discount in celebration of our 34th anniversary! 🎂 The discount includes any of our t-shirts, sweatshirts, hats, beanies, AND @norcalcrags shirts! Don’t see your size out front? 👀 Ask a desk staff member to check the back - we might have it in stock! And of course, shoutout to our setters for making our Rocknasium gear look even better 😍🤘
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Huge thank you to the V.R. supporters for volunteering their time to do trail work at Lover’s Leap! 🛠️🌲 And a MASSIVE thank you to @livinontheledge for guiding the way! We learned so much about the immense effort that goes into trail maintenance, the severe impact on our local environment when people carelessly venture off-trail, and how we can all become better stewards of the land we love to recreate on. Overall, it was a fun, eye-opening, and constructive experience for us. We look forward to doing more with @norcalcrags to continue making a positive impact on our local communities and environments ✌🏾 ***If you can’t go out & physically help then consider donating to @norcalcrags or @accessfund
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Conditions Report!! #youmustgoup #localguides #climbtahoe #loversleapguides #climbing
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If your idea of a good time is dike hike’n, The Groove (5.8) at Lover’s Leap is a classic tick you don’t want to skip! Tucked neatly between Surrealistic Pillar and The Farce, this two-pitch line delivers style, sequence, and plenty of trademark Leap mantles. Here is the breakdown for your next mission: The Crux (Off the Deck): That first move getting off the ground is famously slick and tough—definitely the psychological and physical crux of the pitch. Lean back and to the left while palming the wall with your left hand to unlock it. Bring a standard rack of nuts and small-to-mid cams (thin hands to fingers), and consider dropping a small piece right off the ground or getting a spot to ease the nervous tension before committing.  Pitch 1 (120 ft, 5.8): Once you pull the initial moves, follow the left-facing diagonal crack in the groove. The crack serves more for balance as you transition into a fun, engaging rhythm of mantling from dike to dike with great rest stances. Bolt anchors await you at the top of the pitch.  Pitch 2 (120 ft, 5.easy/4th class): Step right off the anchor where the distance between dikes is shortest, mantle up, and enjoy a choose-your-own-adventure “dike hike” to the top. While it’s mostly run-out with light protection options, the movement backs off significantly and the views of the main wall above make it totally worth finishing out.  Have you hopped on this one yet, or is it still on your Leap hit-list? Let us know your beta in the comments! 🧗‍♂️✨
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Gutenberger Wall Direct 🧗‍♂️🌊 After years of staring across the river at this massive wall, I finally had the chance to climb Gutenberger Wall Direct! When I first discovered this wall, it wasn’t even on my radar, back then, I barely knew how to set up a top rope. Over time, as my climbing skills and knowledge grew, so did my curiosity. Shoutout to @bobbyhutton1989 for pointing me toward a local climbing guide at @bookeryplacerville , where I learned about the history of the wall and its main developer, Bob Branscomb. Route Breakdown & Honest Review The Vibe: A mix of awesome views and classic adventure climbing, though the rock quality can be a bit mixed. Compared to other routes in the area, a 5.7 grade feels pretty fair. Pitch 1 (The Highlight): Starts with a fun finger-crack traverse and smearing moves. You can start via the Approach Boulder or take variations like the Dihedral Bypass (5.9) or Iraqi Dihedral (5.10). Leads up to Grand Central Station (2-bolt chain anchor). Pitch 2 & 3: Low-angle slab and crack climbing. Pitch 3 features a fun fork where you have to choose your line carefully (watch out for lichen and dirt!). Pitch 4 / The Top: Very low-angle, dirty slab walking. Honestly, many climbers recommend skipping the true top and rapping from the final Lichen Us anchor to save yourself some loose wandering slab. Crucial Beta & Tips ⚠️ The River Crossing: This side of the river requires caution! Plan ahead for your return later in the day, and only attempt it when the river is low, calm, and manageable. Rack Up: Single set of cams to 2” (doubles are nice if you want extra comfort), a set of medium-large nuts, and don’t forget long runners on Pitch 1 to prevent rope drag. Great place to practice passive pro (nuts, hexes, tricams)! Descent / Rappelling: Do not try to rap with a single 60m rope unless you want an unexpected adventure or downclimbing. Double ropes, a 70m+, or utilizing neighboring anchors like Lichen Us will make your life much easier. Have you ever checked out the climbing on this side of the river, or is Gutenberger Wall on your tick list yet? Let me know in the comments below! 👇
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Going bouldering outdoors for the first time in months during a heatwave is not my wisest choice 😂 Always good to be touching real rocks though and thankfully it cooled off later in the day for the Lover’s Fest put on by @norcalcrags and @loversleapguides! Can’t wait to be climbing outdoors more consistently once work slows down a little! Ready for fall! #climbing #bouldering #outdoors #laketahoe #lasportiva
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Lover's Fest starts tomorrow! With @loversleapguides & @norcalcrags Demo our climbing socks outside at the Leap... And then let's party tomorrow night at @strawberrystationca 😃
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#youmustgoup #localguides #loversfest #loversleapguides #climbing
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Climbers, dancers and nature lovers! It’s party time and trailwork time! 🕺🪩🌲⛰️🧗‍♀️ Join us this Saturday, August 1st for the Annual Lover’s Fest Party & Fundraiser at the world-famous Strawberry Station General Store! Kickoff the 2026 trail work season at Lover’s Leap and help raise funds for trailwork, stewardship, and advocacy work. enjoy some great food, drinks, raffle tickets, aaand live music from LoCoVille and Wet Wreckless from 7 to 11pm! Check out @norcalgrabs for more info on how to get involved 🤘
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It’s party time. And it’s trailwork time. And you thought we forgot!? Good things are worth the wait!!! Join Us All on Saturday August 1st at 6pm for our Annual Lover’s Fest Party & Fundraiser! Hosted by Strawberry Station General Store, Lover’s Leap Guides & CRAGS.  Kickoff the 2026 trail work season at Lover’s Leap and help raise funds for trailwork, stewardship, policy and advocacy work. With help from the Bay Area Climbers’ Coalition & Tahoe Climbing Coalition, Blue Granite Climbing Gym, Tahoe Gear Exchange, Women’s Lead Club, Access Fund & other gyms, partners and sponsors. Lover’s Fest is our grassroots, local, self-produced annual event. We do it a little differently every year but every time we have a great party! It’s this week - join us this Saturday! It’s like Burger Night but bigger better faster and more! Check out live music from LoCoVille and @wet.wreckless ! Eat drink and rock and roll! BBQ dinner plus sides, snacks and drinks! $20 ‘redpoint’ admission gets you food, drink and raffle tickets + live music $30 ‘onsight’ admission gets you food, drink, raffle tickets, live music AND the custom 2026 CRAGS Tshirt! $8 à la carte burgers $Buy more raffle tix = donate more money and have more chances to win prizes from our sponsors and community partners. We’ll have some cold beer from @touchstonebrewingcompany and NA options! BYO from the best beer and NA selection at Strawberry Station! – Support Squirrel and Jen! PLUS FREE CLINICS with Lover’s Leap Guides on Sunday Aug 2 * Meet for CLIMBER COFFEE at 8am at Strawberry Station General Store * Climbing clinics with Lover’s Leap Guides 830a-1p Check out the @norcalcrags website events page for trailwork signups! Links in bio. * Friday July 31 8a-2p Climber Coffee + Trailwork * Sat Aug 1 8a-12p Climber Coffee + Trailwork + Lover’s Fest 6p-11 * Sun Aug 2 8a-1p Climber Coffee + FREE Clinics with Lover’s Leap Guides Meet @strawberrystationca every day! For trailwork: * Please bring closed toe shoes, long pants, gloves, work clothes, food and water! No exceptions. * Gloves and safety glasses are available – BYO if you have them! Let’s party! And let’s do some dirty work!
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Attention climbers 2026 peregrine falcon closures are lifted on the Central Wall of Lover’s Leap (And at West Chimney on Sugarloaf) Our falcons appear to have had two successful fledglings this year. Despite some tough weather they were very active and can be seen flying hunting and having a speedy time in the air many days. All climbs on Central Wall are now open. Please continue to respect our birds by not approaching or disturbing the falcons if you see them. Please do not fly drones at the cliff. We have many bird species common and rare including a Golden Eagle which I just spotted for the first time this year last week. Remember that the Central Wall is slightly more adventurous, dirtier and less climbed. Be bold and brave but be careful and attentive. Enjoy and check us out for Lover’s Fest this next weekend Aug 1!
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