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150 STORIES, PART 1.

Ancient Hawaiians rode different boards for different waves and different people.

The Olo was the largest, reaching up to 26 feet, and was reserved for Hawaiian royalty.

The Kikoʻo was around 13 to 20 feet long and designed for bigger waves.

The Alaia was smaller, thinner, and widely ridden by commoners.

The Paipo was a small, bellyboard-style craft, ridden lying down and close to the surface of the wave.

But these boards were more than just different shapes and sizes. Their construction, materials and use were deeply connected to Hawaiian society. The choice of wood and the making of a board could involve prayer and rituals, and finished boards were carefully preserved and treated with great respect.

But this rich surfing culture was severely disrupted after Western contact. Introduced diseases caused a dramatic decline in the Native Hawaiian population, while missionaries brought major changes to Hawaiian culture and viewed surfing as a waste of time.

By the end of the 19th century, surfing had almost disappeared from Hawaiʻi, surviving only in a few pockets.

#surfboardshistory #150surfboards #surfboards

GET THE 150 SURFBOARDS POSTERS AND TSHIRTS, LINK IN BIO !

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Our first rotating exhibit at SHACC begins where surfing begins: Hawaiʻi.
Pae Ka Nalu explores the knowledge, traditions and people that shaped the world’s first surfing culture, and the remarkable depth of what Hawaiian surfers understood about waves long before surfing spread around the world.
We wanted our first exhibit in our new home to be more than a history lesson. We wanted it to be a thank you.
Surfing has traveled a long way from Hawaiʻi, becoming a global culture shared by millions. A century ago, Duke Kahanamoku helped carry that gift right here, surfing just down the coast at Corona del Mar and inspiring a new generation of Southern Californians to follow him into the waves.
Today, SHACC sits just a few miles away.
Pae Ka Nalu is our way of honoring where surfing came from, the people who protected it, and the generations carrying it forward.
Come experience it at SHACC in Laguna Beach.

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Thank you to every single one of you who helped make our first week in our new Laguna Beach home such an incredible one. The reception has been absolutely incredible and we could not be more grateful. But the thing that excites us the most is we’re just getting started. We’re looking forward to seeing all of you again and again. 📸 @jpvsphoto

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Hard to describe this moment.

Over the last four months, I’ve had the privilege of working with @macfreefilms and @surfingheritage. If the ten year old surf grom, from Kona, could have seen where I got to take my family this past weekend, he would have been so proud. And so STOKED. We sat there all night, listening to our heroes keep the flame of surf culture and history alive. And when Greg said my name out loud in that room, I felt complete gratitude and family.

Rewind four months…

@gregmacgillivray called me up and said he needed my help to build “something” for SHACC. He wanted it to teach kids the geography of the planet, educate them on waves, and make sure people left feeling STOKED. He described it to me, and I saw it in my head immediately.

Neither Greg nor I had ever built an interactive kiosk. But serendipitously, it was like everything I’d learned in my career up to that point had been preparing me for exactly this. Programming. Documentary and animated storytelling. Writing narration that makes people laugh.

So we got to work. And I started by imagining… what if Bud Browne, Bruce Brown, John Severson, and Greg MacGillivray had teamed up with my favorite animation artists from Looney Tunes and Disney — Tex Avery, Maurice Noble, and Mary Blair? What kind of film would they make? What would it look like?
The result is 20 Great Waves, on display only at @surfingheritage.

UI/UX design and architecture. Sixty videos. Forty hand-drawn animations. One spinning globe. Four months. @jennsette

I learned so much building this device. But mostly, Greg taught me to trust my instincts and my artistic voice. Little did I know, I’ve been making films in the lineage of Bud, Bruce, John, and Greg for years — unknowingly. Learning from Greg showed me the tradition and the giants we all stand on, and it’s one I’m carrying forward in every Stoker Machine film.

Bud brought ingenuity and entrepreneurial spirit to surf films. Bruce brought world adventure and context. John brought humor and art. Greg brought an unforgettable eye, cinematic technique, and education. And building on them, we added hand-drawn #animation #interactive #kiosk to the world of #surf

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Yes, this is a shameless proud momma post. My kid rocks harder that yours 🤘🏼🎸😉😂

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HAWAIIS OWN!
KAUAIS OWN!
KILOHANA HOE WAAS OWN!
& NOW

WORLD CHAMPION!!!
🥇🥇🥇🥇🥇🥇🥇
@iliaumakua_

We hope you feel inspired & moved. Olympic Track Runners train everyday for 4 years for a 9sec sprint. This clip shows you the 2 min and 40 secs of 7 years worth of crazy hours and time spent to be at the highest level of paddling as a 16 year old female. The WORK is the only secret to progress. Let that sink in.

Mahalo to ALL of our Kilohana Hoe Waa sponsors.

ps: Stay Safe Gangy!!!

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You can’t stop a hōlua mid-descent. 🛷🌟 HOLUA Part 2

That’s the whole idea behind this one.

Past, present, future — not three places. One line. The only difference is where you’re standing on it.

From inside the sled, time only runs one way.
From above — the star road — the whole line exists at once.

It’s written in the stars. But what’s written is only fixed from inside.

He never ages. He only transforms. Time isn’t passing him — it’s moving under him.

Be honest — would you lie chest-down on 14 feet of wood and ride it down a lava mountain at 80mph? Yes or no. 👇

KE ALANUI POLOHIWA — HŌLUA PART 2. Out now, link in bio.

#holua #hawaiian #timetravel #metaphysical #crown

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When you ride the line, you not alone
Trust in AKUA 💫
#holua #ridetheline #akua

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KE ALANUI POLOHIWA 🌟HOLUA 🌋🏄

It’s all written in the stars 💫 in that space we know that time is linear in the past, the present, while we bend the future in the inter dimensional space

Full video on YouTube — link in bio and down below 👇🏽

Written & performed by Iamthejungle
Visuals: Tarzan Entertainment

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Tom “Pohaku” Stone says surfing is an extension of Native Hawaiians’ deep cultural relationship with the ocean and the Hawaiʻi’s environment.

@pohatu

Listen to this show (and all other past shows) on the Native America Calling podcast or website.

#NativeSurfers #Surfing #NativeHawaiian #HawaiianSurfers #HawaiianCulture

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Learn about the history of surfing and the art of making Papa He’e Nalu and Papa Holua (traditional Hawaiian wooden surfboards and sleds).

Talk story with legend Tom “Pohaku” Stone @pohatu at Kings and Queens Waikiki this Saturday August 22nd 5-6pm.

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Join us at Kings and Queens Waikiki this Saturday August 22nd 5-6pm for a very special talk story with the legend Tom “Pohaku” Stone @pohatu! We will be unveiling two custom pieces: one papa he’e nalu (traditional wooden surfboard) and one papa holua (traditional wooden sled) for permanent display! Learn about the history of surfing and the art of making papa he’e nalu and papa holua. Cruise by right after the @dukes_oceanfest grom contest across the street!

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