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wedgecrew

@wedgecrew

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Back in 2011, @thetorpedopeople made a movie about bodysurfing called “Come Hell or High Water”. The premier at Lido Theater was epic and the after party got real loose thanks to @benyeye’s mom’s credit card buying the whole bar a round of tequila shots. Thanks for including us Wedge nerds in your film, Keith. And thanks Ben’s mom! #wedge #thewedge #wedgecrew #thewedgecrew #dirtyoldwedge @yuccafins @yucca_designs
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10 years ago today was the biggest, most sketchy surf I’ve ever encountered anywhere. The chatter about that swell had been going on for over a week and I was dead set on catching the biggest wave I could find, not really understanding how big it was actually going to be. I don’t think anyone expected it. The swell was reading 12’ @ 20 seconds from 213 degrees, an angle I came to find to be deadly. I paddled out that morning on my surfboard and chatted with @sharpxxl for a bit and I recall him saying something about it being one of the bigger days he’d seen. I caught one wave before blackball and then threw the fins on and swam back out. It was getting bigger as the tide was rising and the sets were getting more and more consistent. Only about 12 guys were in the water at around 11 when a massive set rolled through. I let the first wave of the set go by, swimming under it next to my good pal @sluttyviking . The wave behind it looked like it had pretty good shape and I turned to Sean saying I was going. I’ll never forget him saying “don’t do it” and I laughed it off and went for it. Big mistake and I should have listened. This was the 2nd wave of a 16 wave set. The 14 waves after, all being significantly bigger as they came in. That 213 angle caused me to be stuck in 5’ of water between the jetty and these massive walls of water with no exit. Pretty much impossible to swim in. I don’t know how I did it but I made it out the back, pretty much blacking out and barely able to breath. They threw me on the back of the lifeguard boat and I got dropped off on the inside of the jetty in complete shock from what I had experienced. Literally 20 minutes after I got back on the beach I noticed a heavier set guy walking up the beach in front of the crowds ready to jump in the water. He had a blue t-shirt on and some Churchill fins. Both red flags as a t-shirt makes it impossible to swim and Churchill’s are pretty much useless in heavy conditions. The guards had mistook this guy as being one of a group of visiting Hawaiian bodysurfers, allowing him to get in the water. The guy jumped in right as the biggest set started to roll in and that’s when things turned ugly. 👇👇
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Thanks @wedgecrew for posting this pic, good memories.. I can only remember a handful of rides and this is one of them. Barely made the drop, bottom turn around some exploding whitewash and pulled into the curl (not deep, just a little shade) where I saw @tburnham83 throwing shakas,, then I straightend out.. 📷 #geoffshivley
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