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Zack Wentz

@zackwentz

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Mtn Safety Advocate
@amga1979 Splitboard & Rock Guide
@bcaguide
@alaskaheliskiing ❄️ Safety
@cascadesconditions Founder
@hokkaidobackcountryclub

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I highly recommend being delusional about your dreams.🤣

When I started mountaineering, I never imagined I’d be here. As I’ve gained more experience, I’ve learned an important lesson:

You are capable of more than you think.❤️

If you’re passionate about something, you should pursue it. For a long time, I didn’t believe I was enough. That’s starting to change.✨

Huge thank you to @zackwentz for letting me take some laps on ice. It was such a cool experience, and I’m super grateful for his patience and expertise.🙌🏻 Systems are something I’m really excited about, and it’s such a huge help when you can learn from someone with such a robust background.

#climbing #hiking #pnw #outdoors

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Steep Camps are multi-day courses that introduce the techniques of Ski-Alpinism in couloirs and steeper terrain found in Alaska, BC, Chilé, and at home in Washington. Click the link in our bio to learn more, or reach out to info@bcadventureguides with any questions.

📸: @rudy.jpeg

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Up next in our Meet Your Guides series is Spliboarder extraordinaire @zackwentz . He has Numerous steep split-boarding descents in Alaska, Canada, Washington, Oregon & France and full split-board descent of the East Face of Aoraki/Mt. Cook in New Zealand.

Zack is a Certified AMGA Splitboard and Rock Guide and an Apprentice Alpine Guide.

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FACETS

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Shuksan Sulfide Glacier — Aug. 27-29, 2026
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Road & Trail to Shannon Ridge: The road conditions are in standard shape, with a car w/ 4WD & clearance being necessary for responsible access. The Shannon Ridge trail is in good shape, with most significant deadfall having been cut to clear access across the trail. Shannon Ridge itself is snow-free, & the whole approach is snow-free largely to the lower bivy site for the Sulfide (📸2).
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Upper Shannon Ridge Trail & Access to the Low Bivy: From the notch above Shannon Ridge, the trail is snow-free through the talus across the next basin. Following this, the trail weaves its way through the 3rd class slabs until moving directly into the 3rd class slabs & gullies above, all of which are snow-free until approx. 6000’ (📸3). At 6000’, snow is found in many gullies & if one can move on snow, it is often easier than moving on the 3rd class slabs to camp.
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Low Bivy Conditions: Conditions at the low bivy offer approx. 10-12 sites for 2-3 person tents on dry ground. The composting toilet is melted out & functional.
The rest of the conditions report is continued in comments.

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Eldorado North Ridge & East Ridge — Aug. 16-18, 2026
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Cascade River Road Conditions: The Cascade River road is in standard shape, with the gate to Cascade Pass open at the Eldorado TH.
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Eldorado Trail Conditions & Crossing N. Fork of the Cascade River: A good place to cross the river for the beginning of the trail is approx. 100’ west of the clearing west of the parking lot (📸2). When following this trail, you’ll be led to a large log that spans a good amount of the creek, leading into more logs that span the remainder of the creeks (📸3). The Eldo trail is in standard shape, but for those who haven’t done it, expect very steep trail & talus until approx. 5200’. At 5200’, there is a waterfall with a bit of water available atop the talus field.
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Roush Creek Basin & Inspiration Glacier: The trail is talus & exposed rock slabs through to the foot of the Eldorado Glacier (📸4). Travel on the Eldorado Glacier is generally snow with some sections of bare glacial ice.
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Eldo Shoulder Bivy: The upper bivy at the base of the East Ridge of Eldo is bare rock, w/ at least 4-5 sites exposed. The toilet is melted out & functional.
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Approach & Conditions N. Ridge Eldo: We came up here to do the N. Ridge of Eldo. Approaching the base of the ridge was smooth, with travel on the upper Inspiration Glacier being smooth with minimal need to weave around open crevasses. Access to the ridge was gained on a supportable crossing at 8200’ approx. 200’ above the notch at the base of the ridge. We belayed the crossing since the moat was still deep, but was manageable (📸5 & 6). The North Ridge was snow-free & in good shape (📸7).
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East Ridge of Eldo: Descent down the East Ridge was smooth. The upper 200’ was standard course for the route, with about a rope length of 45-55 degree snow, easing in steepness after this. Travel down the ridge was generally smooth except for a notable crevasse crossing just above 8200’. Travel down the ridge back to the upper bivy was smooth beyond this.
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If anyone would like GPX tracks for this route, just send me a DM & I’m happy to share. Thanks, & happy climbing!
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📸 & report by: @zackwentz

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June 14th @zackwentz and @mattski_plus_da_dogs set out with Jessie, Kaige, Rowland and Neda to climb Ragged Edge on Vesper with no beta on conditions. Well in photo 11 you can see a show stoppingly steep snow fields on the approach ledges that stopped us in our tracks… we pivoted and hiked to the summit and enjoyed a high alpine top rope session with 20 other climbers and took in the spectacular 360 view of the #cascades . Definitely needs a few weeks to melt back for a safer approach on the ledges. We have availability July 14-25 and Aug 15-30 for alpine and rock climbs this season, come and get your climb reserved this season! @vw_seattle @vw_north @vw_gyms members all get a discount, contact us and let’s 🧗!

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Over a foot of new snow last weekend has kept us doing laps so we want to give you all a chance for some of the best skiing 🎿 on Baker this season! Pick a day or two(take a day off from work;) between June 15-25 for your descent! 🎿🌽@zackwentz is ready for the Splitboarders looking for some mentoring so get out for some quality glacier time!
#amga1979 #skitouring #splitboarding #skimountaineering

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What a season the entire crew @alaskaheliskiing had this year at @powdahmountain.
We call this ‘good till the last drop’ in the Chilkats as this season delivered pow all the way to the final bell. Check out some iPhone clips out the window flying with @temscohelicopters @slinky.ryan and @emoney
We are beyond blessed to have such a strong and talented crew at @alaskaheliskiing @kooshpow @freyer @skiing_ian_ @zackwentz @alaskawilder @kay.leewalden @isaiahjboyle @tatummtat @jake__chastain #alaska #powderskiing #homesteadvibe #powwwww #heli

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Second annual northern migration to @alaskaheliskiing - heck of a time with some awesome people! Had a ton of fun, but waiting through the weather days and dealing with touchy and variable snowpack made us realize how lucky we were last year for the stars to align the way they did. Until next year AK 🫡

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Summer Camp @alaskaheliskiing #snowbording

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Hell of a morning @alaskaheliskiing to close the book on a roller coaster of a week. Real proud of the Spuds and the vid to come 🙏. See you shortly El Gallo, chapter 2 is just firing up ⛷️✈️.

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