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Microbrand watch collector & enthusiast
šŸŽ™ļø Host of The Micro Collector podcast
šŸ‘‡ The people & stories behind microbrand watches
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šŸ—½ What makes Windup Watch Fair NYC so special?

We caught up with Justin Dorfman of The Micro Collector Podcast to hear his impressions of Windup Watch Fair NYC 2026—and why the New York edition is an experience unlike any other.

From lines wrapping around the block to the incredible energy inside, Windup brings together watch enthusiasts, independent brands, and collectors from all walks of life.

Beyond the opportunity to try on watches and meet the people behind the brands, Justin highlighted something particularly interesting this year: the growing number of New York-inspired limited editions, including releases from Brew and Vario.

Could city-specific limited editions become a defining feature of future Windup events?

šŸŽ„ Watch the full conversation to hear Justin's thoughts!

Video: @thecollectorscompass 

#WindupWatchFair
#WindupNYC
#MicrobrandWatches
#WatchCollecting
#TheCollectorsCompass taken in Center415 by @themicrocollector
5
18 hours ago
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One of the reasons I’ve become so interested in microbrands and independent watch companies is that they’ve opened up a part of watch collecting that feels increasingly underserved by the larger groups.

Guillaume Laidet makes a pretty direct argument here: as prices at many established brands have continued to climb, smaller independents have stepped into that gap with interesting design, strong storytelling, and watches that still feel attainable.

You can debate the exact numbers, but I think the broader point is hard to ignore.

There are now a growing number of brands making genuinely interesting watches at prices that allow enthusiasts to actually collect, experiment, and discover something new.

And I think that’s a big part of why this corner of the industry has become so exciting.

Full conversation with Guillaume is now live on The Micro Collector.

#microbrandwatches #independentwatchmaking #guillaumelaidet #watchcollecting #watchenthusiast by @themicrocollector
2
4 days ago
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After talking to hundreds of entrepreneurs over the years, one thing I’ve learned is that what looks like an overnight success from the outside is often a much longer and more painful journey underneath.

And very often, founders point back to the hardest parts of that journey as critical to what eventually made them successful.

Guillaume Laidet’s story is a great example.

His first brand, William L. 1985, went from early success to excess inventory, supplier debt, and ultimately having to let his team go. Guillaume describes the experience as his ā€œMBAā€ — learning not only how to grow a business, but how to destroy one.

Those lessons eventually became part of the foundation for the successful revival of Nivada Grenchen.

I loved hearing the full story behind that journey. And I think you will as well.

Full conversation with Guillaume is now live on The Micro Collector.

#nivadagrenchen #guillaumelaidet #microbrandwatches #entrepreneurship #independentwatchmaking by @themicrocollector
0
5 days ago
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This is definitely one of the wildest founding stories I’ve heard from a podcast guest so far.

Losing €1.2 million overnight and having to figure out what to do next, with components ordered, movements committed, and a team already being built.

It’s these challenging moments that really define a brand, an entrepreneur, and a partnership. When everything is going well, it’s easy to look like you have the answers. The real test is how you respond when the plan suddenly falls apart.

Guillaume Laidet and Théo Auffret found a way to regroup, keep moving, and turn that setback into part of the foundation of SpaceOne.

Full conversation with Guillaume is now live on The Micro Collector.

#spaceonewatches #guillaumelaidet #microbrandwatches #independentwatchmaking #entrepreneurship by @themicrocollector
1
6 days ago
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Linen dial. Applied indices. Black inner bezel. Such a good combo.

One of my favorite things about the KUOE Sombrero is how they’ve designed the dial to practically fill the entire watch case. There’s barely any external bezel, which really draws your attention to the dial and gives all those little details room to shine.

Such a well-executed design.

#kuoe #watchdesign #watchdial #watchcollecting #japanesewatch by @themicrocollector
0
6 days ago
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Three little details I love about my Jack Mason Strat-o-timer GMT.

One of my favorite things about collecting watches is noticing the small design decisions that become more apparent the longer you spend with a piece.

A few that have really stood out to me on the Strat:

1. The case shape. Especially on a leather strap, where you can really appreciate the sculpted lugs and overall profile.
2. The mix of brushed and polished finishing. The contrast between the surfaces adds a lot of visual interest, particularly when the light catches the edges.
3. The signed crown. I particularly love the rounded top and the way the star emblem is incorporated into the design.

None of these details necessarily jump out at you in photos of the watch straight on, but together they make a real difference in how the watch looks and feels on the wrist.

It’s often the little things that make me appreciate a watch even more.

#jackmason #stratotimer #microbrandwatches #watchdetails #watchcollecting by @themicrocollector
2
9 days ago
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One thing I really like seeing from microbrands is investment in the future of the business, not just the next watch.

For HEINRICH, bringing a full-time master watchmaker in-house was a big step. It gives Wolfgang more control over assembly, regulation, quality control, servicing, and even the product development process.

But from a collector’s perspective, I think it also sends an important signal.

When you buy from a small independent brand, you’re not only buying the watch as it exists today. You’re also putting some trust in the company behind it to still be there years from now when that watch needs service, repair, or support.

Seeing a young brand invest in that kind of long-term capability gives me a lot more confidence that they’re building something meant to last.

My full conversation with Wolfgang Heinrich of HEINRICH Watches is live on The Micro Collector.

#microbrandwatches #independentwatchmaking #watchmaking #watchcollecting #watchenthusiast by @themicrocollector
2
11 days ago
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When I first came across HEINRICH Watches, the Helicoprion Football Edition was the watch that made me stop.

I spend a lot of time looking at watches, and after a while, a lot of things can start to blend together. But the texture on this dial immediately caught my eye.

Then I learned it was made from real American football leather.

That detail pulled me in even more, especially once Wolfgang explained the personal story behind it and the connection to his son spending a year in the U.S.

I love seeing brands take a material or idea that feels unexpected and make it feel completely natural within their own design language.

This was one of those watches that made me want to learn more about the person and brand behind it.

My full conversation with Wolfgang Heinrich of HEINRICH Watches is now live on The Micro Collector.

#microbrandwatches #watchdesign #independentwatchmaking #watchcollecting #watchenthusiast by @themicrocollector
3
12 days ago
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One thing I really respect about HEINRICH Watches and Wolfgang’s approach to design is that he acknowledges his watches can be polarizing and not for everyone — and that’s the point.

I think that can be especially hard for a newer brand. There’s a natural tendency to want to create something that appeals to as many people as possible.

But if you try to build for everyone, you can very quickly end up building for no one.

Really leaning into a design choice — even knowing some people won’t like it — is often how a brand starts to establish a distinct design language and build a group of diehard fans who connect with what it’s doing.

My full conversation with Wolfgang Heinrich of HEINRICH Watches is now live on The Micro Collector.

#microbrandwatches #watchdesign #independentwatchmaking #watchcollecting #watchenthusiast by @themicrocollector
9
13 days ago
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I’ve always thought there can be a real advantage to entering an industry as an outsider.

You’re less likely to accept ā€œthis is just how it’s doneā€ as an answer and more likely to go back to first principles and ask what actually needs to be true.

That came through clearly in my conversation with Mickey Brown of Parivas.

Mickey and his team didn’t come from traditional watchmaking, and instead of seeing that as a disadvantage, they used their engineering background to question assumptions they might otherwise have inherited.

As Mickey puts it: they didn’t know the rules, so everything was on the table.

That mindset is a big part of what allowed Parivas to approach the Exo.1 so differently.

Full conversation with Mickey Brown of Parivas is live on The Micro Collector.

#microbrandwatches #independentwatchmaking #additivemanufacturing #entrepreneurship #productdesign by @themicrocollector
2
18 days ago
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Nearly 85% finished straight out of the printer.

That was probably the most surprising part of Mickey Brown’s explanation of how the Parivas Exo.1 is made.

The lattice case and even the indices are already formed as part of a single monolithic structure before the watch ever reaches the CNC machine.

From there, traditional subtractive machining takes over to achieve the tight tolerances, surface finishes, and sealing surfaces needed to turn that printed structure into a finished mechanical watch.

That combination is what makes the process so interesting to me. Additive manufacturing isn’t just being used as a different way to make a conventional watch case. It’s allowing Parivas to design structures that would be extremely difficult, if not impossible, to create using traditional methods alone.

Full conversation with Mickey Brown of Parivas is now live on The Micro Collector.

#microbrandwatches #independentwatchmaking #additivemanufacturing #3dprinting #watchcollector by @themicrocollector
2
19 days ago
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Imagine having the design for your watch complete and ready to go, only to spend the next four years waiting for the technology to build it to catch up.

That’s what happened with Parivas and the Exo.1.

The watch was largely designed before 2022, but additive manufacturing still couldn’t deliver the level of fidelity and refinement Mickey Brown and his team felt watchmaking demanded.

So they worked directly with the companies building the 3D printing systems to help push the technology forward.

It’s a pretty incredible part of the six-year journey behind the Exo.1 and a reminder that sometimes the hardest part isn’t coming up with the idea. It’s figuring out how to make it possible.

Full conversation with Mickey Brown of Parivas is now live on The Micro Collector.

#microbrandwatches #independentwatchmaking #additivemanufacturing #3dprinting #watchcollector by @themicrocollector
5
19 days ago
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