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WAX aka Alex

@waxbeta

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Former ankle injurer👣
✨Finally back on the wall since mid-March😌
Focus: functional strength + technique
Goal: no injuries in 2025☺️
🗺: @waximus

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Technical difficulties abound in life. If we could just have shoes that were comfortable but also could stay on for very tough heel hooks, that would be great.

(I hear that the new version of these shoes fix this problem!)

This climb is definitely worth the grade. After the middle section, there are a few mini, slopery edges that are only wide enough for two fingers. Maybe you’re supposed to full-crimp them?

Shoutout to @twogirlsonecrux for the audio idea!

👕: Bangkok t-shirt
👖: Chinese joggers
👟: @fiveten_official

From July 7, 2022 with Isabelle, @gowanus_climber, and @ruchi.climbs (🎥) @ The Cliffs Gowanus🌃

~Ah, two days off in a row after three days on, feelsgood.jpg. Bouldering in Central Park Sunday afternoon (bringing my new used crash pad😍), DM if you wanna join💪~

#beta #klettern #climbing #climbon #攀岩 #amuerte #rockclimbing #bouldering #mood #climbingcommunity #escalada #project #eatclimbrepeat #lifelessons #hard
#nevergiveup #challengeyourlimits #climbinglife #boulderinglife #climbinginspiration #fitfam #rockgym #liveclimbrepeat #climbingtraining #boulderingbabes #boulderinglife #climbing_photos_of_instagram #postfailsnotsends #climbing_is_my_passion #brooklyn by @waxbeta

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4 years ago

#tbt to 2017 where I was kinda skinny. I wasn’t weak, but I was definitely not consuming enough calories because I foolishly thought it would be a good way to save money.

It was a hard time for me. I was laid off in late 2016 and felt directionless. I was still immature, and I was irresponsible. I had made some mistakes personally and professionally and I needed time away from the corporate world; I call it my sabbatical.

I took a trip to SE Asia, did a lot of climbing, and I spent a lot of resources helping a friend who was in a desperate situation. But without an income, I became pretty broke. I had to hustle and picked up odd jobs here and there. My roommate and I ran a small Airbnb out of a spare room, which helped with making rent, but I was getting deeper into debt.

Well, I figured at least I had made all the mistakes I could make and have learned from them. But as they say, sometimes things get worse before they get better.

2017 saw some difficulties and mistakes that were even harder to bounce back from because of financial stress and the physical stress of being hungry often. But you wouldn’t be able to tell I was dealing with a lot from talking to me, I was resourceful.

I maintained an image that things were fine, normal. And I hid everything, even from close friends and family. I seemed upbeat and had a smile for everyone. And you wouldn’t know I wasn’t eating well from seeing this photo.

Oh well, that was then. Things are better now, after (and I sound like a broken record) many ups and downs. Climbing was the one constant. I’ve worked on myself quite a bit since then and have learned many a life lesson. And I’m stronger now; I’m not as lean, but I’m healthier.

Whatever you may be going through, and some of you are going through far worse than I ever did, just know that you’re not alone, there are people who you can talk to. You can message me if you ever want to chat. There is always hope. Know this: things will get better.

From April 10, 2017 with @vnair2 and Dandan @ Brooklyn Boulders Queensbridge🏢

~Decided to rest another two days because my fingers and biceps are sore; need to be ready for the comp on Saturday! @gp_eighty_one ~ An Asian male, shirtless, with short hair, pauses on a climbing wall, with head turned to his left, as if noticing the photo being taken taken in Brooklyn Boulders Queensbridge by @waxbeta

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4 years ago

Juwanna have some of my chalk? Go ahead mang, I have a lot.

~Busy filming this weekend, will climb tomorrow~ taken in Chinatown by @waxbeta

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5 years ago

It’s 2016 again! Wow I had a lot of hair, and more baby fat.

But also I was a little lost. A breakup, a job loss, feeling untethered.

I looked inward to understand what defines me: expression. I looked down to understand what grounds me: movement. I looked up to understand what connects me: love. And I looked outward to understand what guides me: experience.

Well, a whole decade later I think I’ve done as well as I could. I made mistakes and slowly, slowly learned from them. Most importantly, I lived authentically. I was unapologetically and incandescently myself. And that’s as much as I can ask of me.

What will you find in yourself in 2026?

#2016 #2016trend #journey #throwback #memories taken in Brooklyn, New York by @waxbeta

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9 months ago

I’m back!

Been almost two months since I started climbing again after many fits and starts in 2023/2024. I have a feeling this time is gonna stick.

So, what did I miss?😋

And uh, what’s new? Has the climbing video meta changed drastically?

Is it even acceptable to wear original Moccasyms anymore??

——

#toehooktuesday
Surprisingly short and sweet pink🩷climb (V6-V8), with good holds and feet for the first section, followed by a balancey ending with bad crimps.
Flashed✨, this video is the repeat.

👕: @uniqlousa
👖: @boulderdenim
👟: @adidasfiveten

From May 13, 2025, on the Wave Wall North @ Brooklyn Bouldering Project 🏙 taken in Brooklyn Bouldering Project by @waxbeta

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a year ago

#failfriday

What I’ve learned from this experiment:
1. Climbing shirtless doesn’t make me climb 2 grades harder. Or at least I haven’t unlocked that ability yet. If anything it just makes me self-conscious.
2. I’m skinnier than I think? Have always thought there was excess fat around my nipples.
3. Climbing with short shorts = good. Climbing with short swim trunks = great.
4. After every big move there’s a wiggle.
5. ABBA is a mood.

I think I see where the beta went wrong. Will have to try this again when fresh! And with my send shoes ;)

👕: 👀
👖: @chubbies
👟: @fiveten_official

From July 24, 2022, with @disco_twitch and @run_climb_queens (🎥) on the 30° Wall @ The Cliffs Gowanus🏙

~Lately shoulders are both kinda feeling sore, need to take a couple days off. Should do some more strengthening exercises in the meantime. Probably climbing Sunday at the Cliffs Gowanus, see you there~ taken in Movement Gowanus by @waxbeta

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4 years ago

My first outdoor V4! Sent in 2 attempts, I guess I just really yanked on the crimp. This is the repeat.💪

The initial send was quite scary because there wasn’t any chalk up there after the beginning, and I couldn’t keep track of where feet were… and it was pretty high up!

See, who needs aggressive shoes?😋

What a great climbing trip. I also sent a couple V3s that day. I think I’m starting to get the hang of outdoor bouldering!😍

You have a crash pad? Come join next time. You don’t? Come join next time!

“Enter the Dragon” V4, probably named because of the rock pocket in the beginning.
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/118791347/enter-the-dragon

👕: @uniqlo with @natgeo
👖: @boulderdenim
👟: @fiveten_official

From July 30, 2022, with @amalyamegerman (🎥) on the Kung Fu Slab @ The Powerlinez 🪨

~Climbing this afternoon at the Cliffs Gowanus, see you there~ taken in Powerlinez by @waxbeta

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4 years ago

Srsly like I’m goofing off >half the time.

This move looked easier from the ground! At least I nailed the first move on the first attempt🥹

👕: @express
👖: @patagonia
👟: @lasportivana

From July 29, 2022, with @bigbootymoves (🎥) first attempt on the V7 on the overhang wall @ Central Rock Manhattan🏙

~Had a great bouldering sesh at the Powerlinez Saturday! Will post a climb from there soon☺️~ by @waxbeta

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4 years ago

#fbf to June of 2018. I haven’t done a V8 in 4 years? Shieeet…

Crimpy V8 on the 3D Wall @ The Cliffs at LIC. This is the repeat for the camera.😊

But seriously, that was an amazing feeling.

At first, I couldn’t even start the problem, until I found beta that worked. Some micro-adjustments including leg positioning made all the difference. Kinda weird to have the left leg dangling like that but we do what we must.

These ledges were all pretty tiny, especially the feet - trying to climb this in my Moccasyms would’ve been pretty difficult😅. You can bet after this I learned the true value of full crimps!

The crux was so cool… Looking at it now, it might’ve been more manageable with an inside flag. Fairly overhung there, two points of contact, had to be a bit dynamic. Requires precision to hit the move and then strength to absorb the momentum.

After that, fairly manageable crimps as long as you kept your body tight and engaged your core.

👕: @fivefour
👖: @uniqlousa
👟: @lasportivana originally from @thekevinwang

From June 29, 2018 with Steph (🎥) on the 3D Wall @ The Cliffs at LIC🌃

~Been busy with work (but whyyy), still climbing and filming but haven’t had the time to make a Reel. It has to pass the Alex quality test which means I have to spend time on it, etc... Gonna try to balance my priorities a bit, hopefully I’ll be able to post more often again!~ taken in Movement LIC by @waxbeta

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4 years ago

Endurance, pocket V6 with a forced down-climb😱 on the 45° wall @ The Cliff Gowanus.

This was attempt 4, but watching numerous people try it and discussing the beta surely sped up the process. Such an interesting climb, with three distinct sections: traverse into blind reach to pocket, down-climb then back up, traverse all on pockets.

The first three attempts I avoided doing the down climb, because I thought there might be a way to skip it and break the beta. Didn’t quite work! Though I suppose you could match the pocket if you try hard enough.😝

Probably the hardest (not to mention longest) V6 I’ve ever done. That’s not to say they aren’t even harder V6s out there, like that yellow V6 on the barrel wall downstairs, I don’t think anyone’s sent that (unless they normally climb V8 and up). Looking at you, setters! *shakes fist*

Also, happy to have sent this with my soft shoes😇. I think I got a boost from having bouldered at Central Park the day before!

👕: @express
👖: @uniqlousa
👟: @fiveten_official

From July 11, 2022 with @thebrownboulders. @ruchi.climbs, and @discotwitch (🎥) @ The Cliffs Gowanus🌃

~Ran a 5K last night but took it easy, climbing tonight!~ taken in Movement Gowanus by @waxbeta

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4 years ago

#mondaymotivation
One Star Wolf did a drawing of me!🥹

I don’t know why but whenever someone makes art of me, I feel giddy. Maybe something about being worthy or notable enough to be the subject of an art piece? Usually you see important events and famous people as subjects, so it’s really heartwarming (not to mention flattering) when someone picks little ole’ me.

Well, @onestarwolf is wonderful at making art for the common climber. Check out her stuff!

This climb is from the Greenpoint Redpint competition a month and a half ago @ GP-81. This was the hardest send that day and I felt somewhat proud (and had on an appropriately sendy outfit)… and I thought wouldn’t it be nice if @onestarwolf would do a drawing from that send? So I tagged her with #onestarwolfart (her bat signal), wondering if she’d notice me among all the tags.

Well, here we are.🥰

Thank you!!

👓: @firmoo_optical
👕: @thecliffslic tank by @bellacanvas
👖: Chinese joggers
👟: @lasportivana

Climb from May 28, 2022 @ GP-81🦾
Art from a surprise message from @onestarwolf July 17, 2022🎨

~Climbed yesterday and projected some hard stuff. Resting until tomorrow~ Artistic rendering of a climber in a near horizontal position taken in Brooklyn, New York by @waxbeta

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4 years ago

It’s Wednesday again! That means time for a voiceover, right? Woiceover Wednesday or something?

Here’s a really cool comp-style climb⚡️ in two distinct traversing sections @ The Cliffs Gowanus; I would grade it a V4-V5.

The first section is slightly overhung. There’s a slight downclimb moment in the beginning that requires good body tension. Figuring out the next beta, you see a big banana with feet on the left, which clues you into a layback with right hip on. There are no feet leading up to it, so we smear.

I’ve never seen this diamond-shaped volume stalagmite, very curious.

The upper section is more slabby, presenting more challenge with balance and getting the body to move where you want it to with limited options.

The good thing about slab is you are often able to take time to pause and think. Midway through the upper section I realized I couldn’t move any further; but rather than jumping down, I realized I could get my foot farther to the left if I backtrack a little bit. Every climb on a new problem is a flash attempt, after all.

Such a great problem, thanks setters!

(Did you notice I’m slightly stuffy in the voiceover?)

👕: Bangkok t-shirt
👖: @uniqlousa
👟: @lasportivana

From July 7, 2022 with Isabelle, @gowanus_climber, and @ruchi.climbs (🎥) @ The Cliffs Gowanus🌃

~Anyone else have significant wrist pain?? What do? Climbed on it Sunday and Monday, we’ll see about tonight…~ taken in Movement Gowanus by @waxbeta

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4 years ago