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Wen Di

@westofwander

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文迪 | 💻 | 5’5 + 0 | 165cm
Using data to understand my climbing.

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Ended up in a knee brace for the rest of the trip because I projected too many right heel problems. 🥲 This trip I finally got past the pocket move on Monkey Wrench v7 but then I heard a loud pop in my leg and I was out of climbing. Also need to be stronger for the next few moves as they did not feel like a gimme.
📷@loneoceans by @westofwander

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5 years ago

Forgot how rewarding hiking was! Well worth the 3 hour drive to the trailhead. We got back just before the rain hit too🌦

We did counter clock wise but would definitely choose clockwise next time.

Thanks helping me take some photos @chrissychi! taken in Heather-Maple Pass in the North Cascades National Park by @westofwander

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5 years ago

Hollywoo v9/v10 - The texture on this rock is unreal. Right across the road from Hueco Crimper.

While some people don’t care about grades, I rely on them often. Not because I believe in ‘taking a grade’. Ultimately these are rocks in a forest with nothing to take except memories with your friends and the taste of sour watermelon gummies. What I do believe in is leaving your guidance for others.

If it werent for the video beta from @the_mighty_quark and @emilyg406, I would have stopped coming here. In 2023 I injured both my TFCCs here not because I think the rock is injurious but because I’ve ignored three different physical therapists who told me to work on my wrists.

By now we know outdoor grading is more inaccurate for two categories of climbers: women and those with shorter span. I feel disrespectful suggesting a v9 grade because a large part of projecting is finding beta in the first place. I wouldn’t have come back if I didn’t see their videos and feel enough hope to grind through 3 months of wrist rehab.

Traveling to Leavenworth, finding lodging, food, and carving out time is not free. If we think of grades not as personal trophies, but rather guides to help others find the challenges they seek, then I think we all win.

So, for the 5’5ish no span climber looking for a bicepy but delicate challenge with incredible moves in the cool shade of old trees, I think this could fall between v9 and v10. The knee bar never feels great, but it will stay. To stick the left horn move, I did have to train my one arm dead hang up from 5 seconds to 15 seconds.

Since this rock is super underrated, I hope you post a video and give your opinion as well. I want to learn something from you.

PS - the approach is really not that bad. I would know, because I can’t run a mile.
🙌: @donutholds, Steven, @scottbot_117
Thanks for helping me figure out the top out and the extra pad pass!
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#leavenworthbouldering #climbinggirls #climbing #climbinglife #climbing_is_my_passion #girlswhoclimb #pnwadventures #climblikeagirl #womenwhoclimb #bouldering taken in Leavenworth, Washington by @westofwander

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2 years ago

Ep. 24: Climbing spaces are the best third space!! feat: @westofwander @chalkmate #ad

📍Benchmark San Francisco

Host: @dustspeck_

DM me to feature on an episode 🙂

𝚒𝚗𝚜𝚙𝚒𝚛𝚎𝚍 𝚋𝚢 𝙺𝚊𝚛𝚎𝚎𝚖 (𝚂𝚞𝚋𝚠𝚊𝚢𝚃𝚊𝚔𝚎𝚜)

#wallsaremeantforclimbing #kobebryant by @westofwander

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6 days ago

⚙️ Training Gear Review - forearm extensors

Sometimes the solution to sticking to antagonist training is just a better user experience. While the reverse wrist curl is simple, I personally don’t like how easy it is to have poor form and how much it taxes my grip as the weight goes up.

Product Name: Forearm Finisher by @goldengripshop

If you are interested in trying this device out make sure you look up a discount code somewhere first to save a bit on the final amount. I’m sure there’s a bunch floating on the internet.

Additional Notes
Performance: direct hit to extensors and satisfying to use
Build Quality: very durable but heavy, would like to see it in more gyms and not in my gym bag
Design: appreciate the adjuster toggle for my smaller hands, does get dirty in a chalky environment

#bouldering #climblikeagirl #climbingtraining #physicaltherapy #womenwhoclimb by @westofwander

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7 months ago

I first saw this boulder 7 years ago and never thought I would be strong enough to send it. I watched my friend Jess Del Mundo use this beta back when climbing social media and beta videos were rare. I was deeply influenced by this rock to go outside.

Since then I’ve struggled to ask friends to go up that approach with me because I didn’t think I could do it.

🎀Thank you so much @pitachip7 for inspiring me yesterday and @lauramarie43 the first woman similar to my height I watched send with this beta. ☀️

Happy F***ing International Women’s Day!!

Also thank you for group stoke Taylor, Matt, Hunter, Ricky, Scott, Wes, and Tu.

#climblikeagirl #bouldering #climbinggirls taken in Leavenworth, Washington by @westofwander

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7 months ago

Did you know the @wristwidget is both a diagnostic tool and a brace for healing the TFCC?

Wrist injuries can have similar symptoms that are hard to diagnose correctly without invasive imaging or surgically opening up the wrist to take a look. Some MRIs can’t even see a TFCC tear.💥Many physical evaluations in clinics also fail to properly catch a TFCC before it gets worse.

Instead of all that, the weight bearing test using an analog scale definitively tests if you have a TFCC injury. To spread awareness about this simple yet effective test, I’ll give away a widget for free if you share this post.

🌟Giveaway Rules
1) Follow (the giveaway software I’m using requires this)
2) Share this in your story
OR
2b) Tag an injured friend in the comments
(Extra points if you do both though)

A random winner will be chosen on December 25, 2025 by 8pm PST and receive a free @wristwidget brace.

✨ Check out the @wristwidget page for more brace details!

The winner must provide a US address.

This video is not to be taken as medical advice. Information and research presented is supported by members of the medical field who have offered me their insights. As always, seek out professional help and obtain as much knowledge as you can when you face great uncertainty.
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#bouldering #climblife #climber #攀岩 #tfcc #climbingtraining #rockclimbing #womenwhoclimb #exercisescience #physicaltherapy #rehabjourney #wristpain by @westofwander

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10 months ago

Are wrist extension exercises actually the worst for a TFCC injury? My initial evaluation showed I had no extensor carpi ulnaris (ECU) issues, but that changed very quickly when I was assigned wrist extensions in physical therapy.

Even with different modifications wrist extensions simply felt bad. But because I wanted to be a good patient, I powered through them. This was not the right choice, and it turns out, there’s a good explanation why.

Thank you Wendy Medeiros @wristwidget for your extensive expertise, and Jan for your support and providing access to literature and research.

Pain and symptoms from ECU and TFCC injuries can often be so similar they are hard to differentiate on an initial evaluation. Both exhibit pain on the ulnar side. In the next video, we’ll look at the most definitive way to test whether you have a TFCC injury.

Subluxation video credit: Dr. Colin W.

This is my personal experience rehabbing two TFCC strains + tears.
Hope it will be useful to you as a reference to compare details and experiment, but please do not take it as medical advice. I appreciate the privilege to be supported by friends in the medical field who have offered me their insights. As always, seek out professional help and obtain as much knowledge as you can when you face great uncertainty.
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#bouldering #climblife #femaleanatomy #womeninfitness #climber #攀岩 #tfcc #climbingtraining #womenwhoclimb #climblikeagirl #exercisescience #physicaltherapy #rehabjourney #ECU #wristpain #extensorcarpiulnaris by @westofwander

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10 months ago

How often the wrist enters deep flexion was not a common discussion in my climbing community. In fact I had never given it much thought until I was sidelined by this injury.

With the recent rise of popularity in grip sports this has become more obvious, but 2 years ago I never saw anyone do more than a 15lb wrist curl at my gym. Progressively overloading my wrist curl was an utterly important factor in my ability to become even stronger at slopers. But until I gained stability through isometric plate holds (part 3) and fixing rotation (part 4), these were not on the table for me.

This is my personal experience rehabbing two TFCC strains + tears.
Hope it will be useful to you as a reference to compare details and experiment, but please do not take it as medical advice. I appreciate the privilege to be supported by friends in the medical field who have offered me their insights. As always, seek out professional help and obtain as much knowledge as you can when you face great uncertainty.
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#bouldering #climblife #femaleanatomy #womeninfitness #climber #攀岩 #tfcc #climbingtraining #womenwhoclimb #climblikeagirl #exercisescience #physicaltherapy #rehabjourney by @westofwander

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a year ago

Part 4 - Hammer Wrist Rotations
⚠️Stay to end for warning.
At first both my hand therapist and physical therapist were cautious that I wanted to stop doing mobility exercises. But once they saw the progress I made with just holds, they worked with me to progress further.

The hardest part of my injury was staying consistent and having faith that patience would be rewarded. Pain in my TFCC during rotations was a hard grind to get through, and frankly not glamorous.

But combined with the plate exercises from part 3, I was finally able to stop regressing into a flare.

Once my wrist could rotate a 3lb hammer in full range of motion without pain, I started to stretch my wrist. But before that, I focused all my time on holds. I started with 2x a week then moved up to 4x a week.

This is my personal experience rehabbing two TFCC strains + tears.
Hope it will be useful to you as a reference to experiment and compare progress but please do not take it directly as medical advice. I appreciate the privilege to be supported by friends in the medical field who have offered me their insights. As always, seek out professional help and obtain as much knowledge as you can when you face great uncertainty.
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#bouldering #climblife #femaleanatomy #womeninfitness #climber #攀岩 #tfcc #climbingtraining #womenwhoclimb #climblikeagirl #exercisescience #physicaltherapy #rehabjourney by @westofwander

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a year ago

This is the guide I wish I had at the beginning of my TFCC injuries. Meant to be used as a video companion guide to my TFCC series.

Hope it will be useful to you to compare details but please do not take it as medical advice. I appreciate the privilege to be supported by friends in the medical field who have offered me their insights. As always, seek out professional help and obtain as much knowledge as you can when you face great uncertainty.

#bouldering #climblife #femaleanatomy #womeninfitness #climber #攀岩 #tfcc #climbingtraining #womenwhoclimb #climblikeagirl #exercisescience #physicaltherapy #rehabjourney by @westofwander

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a year ago

[ Part 3 - The Missing Hold ]
What has been your most challenging experience with TFCC rehab so far?

A significant challenge with my injury was breaking the reinjury flare cycle. When my wrist hurt, daily activities like watering my plants or washing the dishes were extremely painful. To increase my wrist capacity I needed more wrist stability exercises beyond wrist curls or holds.

Wrist curls and holds are actually fantastic and deserve their own pedestal. While much of TFCC rehab does involve strengthening around the injured tissues, a flare would make this loading too painful. But as we saw in part 2, rest alone did not make this better.

This is my personal experience rehabbing two TFCC strains + tears.
Hope it will be useful to you as a reference to compare details but please do not take it as medical advice. I appreciate the privilege to be supported by friends in the medical field who have offered me their insights. As always, seek out professional help and obtain as much knowledge as you can when you face great uncertainty.
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#bouldering #climblife #femaleanatomy #womeninfitness #climber #攀岩 #tfcc #climbingtraining #womenwhoclimb #climblikeagirl #运动康复 #物理治疗 #手腕#exercisescience #physicaltherapy #rehabjourney #womenwhoclimb by @westofwander

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a year ago