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Zackary Koyle

@zackoyle

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Such a rad weekend with @claytonjshaw !!

On Friday we climbed Smashmouth (5.11, 4P). Both of us managed to squeak out an onsight!

On Saturday we climbed Shune-Lite (5.11+, 7P) and managed another no-fall day! I had been on Shune’s once before, but it TOTALLY shut me down last time; I had to resort to pulling on cams just to get through it. It was satisfying to come back a year a half later and free it. Also, very impressive to watch Clayton onsight the whole route, with a seemingly big margin.

Most of the time I come away with a bunch of pictures of rocks, but we did a good job getting a few pictures of each other this time. Thanks for the photos Clayton! by @zackoyle

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6 days ago

Sand-Skrit 🏜️

For years I’ve stared up at the west face of Paria Point and wondered about the climbing. It’s sort of the most obvious face in the whole Kolob section on Zion; it looms over the big parking lot where everyone heads up to Namaste Wall, all the tourists stop to take pictures there, and frankly, it’s in the back of a lot of my OWN wedding photos!

There’s an obvious weakness straight up the west face which is an existing adventure route, but it looks pretty bushy. Then, 100’ left of the obvious weakness, there’s a faint splitter that can only be seen from certain angles…

Last week Connor and I set out to repeat the existing route when we noticed this beautiful splitter and knew we had to climb it, so we went for it. Ground up, no inspection. It wound up being a rad new route through a couple fantastic splitter pitches at a surprisingly moderate grade.

There’s still a little bit of looseness up there, but I think it’ll clean up really nicely. I’m stoked to have done it, but I gotta give the lion’s share of the credit to Connor for boldly questing up this stuff on-sight! Dude’s an animal. by @zackoyle

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13 days ago

Notch Peak 🏔️

Last week @connorbaty and I climbed Western Hardman into Book of Saturday. It was 24 pitches and roughly 2700’ of climbing 🤯 One of my biggest days of climbing yet…

We onsighted everything and broke very few holds, no small feat considering the reputation of this area. We made fairly good time climbing Western Hardman in 3 hours and Book of Saturday in 5. We swapped leads all day, with one exception (thanks for taking that last 5.10 R pitch Connor 😬)

Also big thanks to @stephabegg_com for all the beta! I think we found your rappel biner… taken in Notch Peak, Utah by @zackoyle

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18 days ago

I’ve been doing a bunch of bouldering since moving to Cedar! It’s been a fun change of pace, I’m feeling really strong. These are a few highlights.

Animal Logic V4-5

Fruitful Functions V9-

Monochromatic V5-

Big Screen V3+

“Barrel Roll” V8 @ 55° on the Kilter Board.
@kilterboard #kilterboard #kiltergrips

“Only for 60-degrees of hell 💥🔥💥🔥💥🔥” V9 @ 60° on the Kilter Board.
@kilterboard #kilterboard #kiltergrips by @zackoyle

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2 months ago

🐘 Elephants Perch

Got to spend a few days at the Elephants Perch a couple months ago with @braxtonfrancom & @climber_wyatt !

Had a great time climbing the mountaineers route on our first day in really good time (especially for a party of 3). Rain threatened, but never came. Super fun.

On our second day we decided we’d climb Astro Elephant, but after getting cooked by the sun while we climbed the first four pitches we decided to bail, completing our ‘dumbo’ variation (traverse off the route via the huge ledge on top of p4).

We were pretty spent after that so we decided to hike out and climb a little at the fins the next day.

Overall a super fun trip. Thanks for taking a lot of these videos!! @climber_wyatt @braxtonfrancom by @zackoyle

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2 months ago

The climbing in Europe was mind blowing 🤯

I’m gonna list all the places we climbed in Europe and a route or two that highlighted my time there.

Margalef, Spain 🇪🇸
✅ Indian Holidays (5.11d) - Onsight
✅El Vikari (5.12b) - RP, 2nd go

Siurana, Spain 🇪🇸
🧗 We only spent a couple hours here, but it was fun to hike around, check out some of the worlds hardest sport routes and onsight a few 5.10’s.

Ceuse, France 🇫🇷
The climbing in style in Ceuse takes a while to learn and the grades seemed pretty sandbagged, so I was stoked to still redpoint a couple 5.12’s.
✅ Le Moustik Enrage (5.12a)
✅ Lapinerie (5.12b)

Verdon Gorge, France 🇫🇷
The Verdon was hands down the coolest place we climbed. Huge limestone walls with perfect rock.
✅ La Raie Du Hulk (5.12b) - Flash (my hardest flash to date) … Anderson and I both thought this was one of the coolest routes we’ve ever done. Kneebars, tufa’s, stemming and perfect rock.
✅ La Peau Du Hulk (5.12d) - One of the coolest projects I’ve ever had. Did it on my 5th try and 2nd day, it was a similar caliber to the other route, just a touch harder.
❌Alix, Punk Du Vergons (5.12c, 10P) - this route absolutely kicked my butt. I didn’t free any of the pitches, but it was still such a cool line up a huge feature, and it was good to get humbled. It was so fun / inspiring to watch @andersonsonger flawlessly onsight the whole route.

Arco, Italy 🇮🇹
✅ Not Normal (5.12a)
✅La Bamba (5.12a)

Frankenjura, Germany 🇩🇪
✅ Hitch Hike The Plane (5.13a) - RP, 3rd go. I had a goal to redpoint a 5.13a on this trip so I was stoked to send this historic one! The style fit me really well and the route went down really fast. by @zackoyle

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2 months ago

Spending time with different people was Olivia and I’s favorite part of our trip. We got to make new friends, see old friends, spend time with family, hear inspiring stories and most importantly spend lots of quality time with each other.

I probably ought to make a post for each of these people, but I just want to share a little about some folks we spent time with.

Our first stop of the trip was in Margalef, Spain to do some climbing. I met Ryan on a climbing facebook page cause we were both looking for partners. Ryan ended up spending a lot of time with us over the next couple days and we got to know him a little. He’s a ski terrain park builder in Mammoth, California and loves to travel during his off season.

I really can’t say enough good about Anderson & Anne. Anderson is a friend from Logan who was crazy enough to agree to come to France and climb for a couple weeks. We didn’t know Anne super well beforehand, but after this trip I’d call both of them great friends. Both of them are super thoughtful, intelligent and fun to spend time with. We climbed for a few rainy days in Ceuse before heading to the Verdon Gorge.

My parents and two of my sisters came over and spent about a week with us too! It’s pretty hard to not have a good time with them… We got to see Paris, London, rural France and Marseille with them. It was a pretty action packed week or so!

Seeing Shandel was a crazy story. She’s a girl that Olivia and I served our missions with. We had been trying to coordinate a time to see her in northern France but our schedules / locations didn’t seem like they would align. Then, on the opposite side of the whole country on a tiny island (chateau d’if) we ran into her!

We stopped in Annemasse, France and got to visit Marisa too! She’s another sister missionary that Olivia and I served with in St. George.

We met this fun family that was also traveling around Europe in a van. Without any coordination we ended up in Gap France, Annemasse France and Bern Switzerland at the same time as them. We got to know them really well, they took care of us for a week or so with great cooking, stories and advice. Their names were Thierry, Anna, Pierre and Benjamin. by @zackoyle

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3 months ago

Proud to be an American 🇺🇸

Having just spent two months out of the states made celebrating our country that much sweeter. Europe was super cool, but there’s no place like home.

In Germany we learned a lot about WW2 and got a taste for the evil that happened during it. If you want to feel somber and humbled, visit a concentration camp. Even the men who participated in these horrifying acts knew how wrong it was, evidenced by them literally hiding their faces during the Nuremberg trials (pictured above).

That being said, the German people of today are awesome. They’re industrious, efficient, kind and they all spoke great English which was nice for Olivia and I. The town of Dresden is a great symbol of modern Germany: a few scars, but rebuilt better and more beautiful than ever. In the picture above is a previously destroyed church that was rebuilt using some of the original (black) stones.

While we were in France we met a young Irish man named Jeff who told us how impressed he was that “random guys from places like Idaho” were willing to leave their families, safety and comfort to fight a war that they didn’t start and deliver others from suffering.

In England we went to a church that had an entire chapel devoted to the American soldiers who gave their life to fight for the freedom of Britain.

The news & other media would have us believe that the world is divided and that other countries hate the USA. But the truth is that in every country we visited we met people who thought very highly of it.

Just this morning Olivia and I were talking about how grateful we are to be born into the greatest country on earth and into families that love and support us. As we pondered on that it was almost as if we could hear God whispering to us: “Where much is given, much is required.”

God bless the USA. by @zackoyle

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3 months ago

Olivia and I just spent 2 months touring around Western Europe in a van.

Last fall we decided to start a restaurant in Burley, so we put all our money together, saved aggressively, planned a lot, told people about it, started construction on a space … and then got cold feet. We didn’t feel right about going forward with it. There’s a myriad of practical reasons, but ultimately we prayed about it and knew that it wasn’t the right time.

So, we did the only responsible thing there was left to do: spend some of that money on a big trip 😂

Jokes aside, the trip was a great reset after what felt to me like an embarrassing first venture into entrepreneurship. It reminded me of what I value most in life:

- my relationship with my Heavenly Father and Jesus Christ
- my relationships with other people
- my desire to learn all I can and do meaningful work
- my love for wholesome recreation

It inspired me to return to social media. After seeing some of my friends’ posts on Olivia’s phone and getting so excited to see what they’re up to I realized how selfish it was for me to keep my stories to myself. by @zackoyle

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3 months ago

Happy Birthday Olivia! ❤️

Being married to you is like a daydream and it just keeps getting better. I’m glad I get to be next to your side through it all. Love you! 23 looks good on you 😍 by @zackoyle

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9 months ago

Tricks of the Trade - 5.10d C2

A couple months ago Connor mentioned to me that he wanted to try and do the first free ascent of Tricks. (To climb it using his hands and feet to climb the natural features of the rock, but with a rope to protect him in a fall.) I was excited about supporting him in trying it, so we made plans and finally got up there this weekend. Unfortunately the free climbing didn’t seem possible, but we still got a lap up an incredible route.

I joked with Connor that this was the Make A Wish ascent because he did most of the heavy lifting literally and figuratively. I’m so grateful to have such big adventures in beautiful places with good company. It’s pretty special. by @zackoyle

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a year ago

If I had a $1 for every mile I ran today I’d have $30

Race The Rocks 50k was super fun! It was such a beautiful course, I love the City of Rocks and it was so neat to see new parts of it and cover so much ground.

I’m super grateful for @oliviakoyle and sister @hanalees coming to cheer me on! Seeing them at every aid station definitely cheered me up.

We ended up running into some friends from Provo too, Zach was running the race too and ended up getting 3rd. Super inspiring by @zackoyle

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a year ago