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Angus Kille

@angus.kille

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Climber and coach
@strongmind.climbing
📍North Wales UK 🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿
Thanks @dmm_climbing @rab.equipment + @scarpa_uk for the support
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The other day @hazel_findlay and I made a joke that caught on a little better than expected. Fast forward a few days and we were in a little chapel in Las Vegas saying ‘I do’.

The small bunch of friends that joined us somehow managed to make our impromptu wedding really special. We had a 15 minute slot in the chapel, Haribo for wedding rings, shockingly smart borrowed outfits (thanks @alexhonnold and @sannimccandless ) and a very good time.

We were never sure if marriage and its traditions were really for us, but having a big wedding and making a fuss definitely wasn’t. Thanks to some very good friends we managed to celebrate with minimal fuss and now I’m married to my favourite person.

I hope we can share the celebration with more of the important people in our lives when we find the right way to do it, even if it’s just a raised glass or a fist bump 🥂👊

Thanks @rhiannon_klee @_drew_smith_ @sandy.russellc Sanni, Alex and of course Fennerz for such a brilliant day, and Drew for all of the great photos 📸 by @angus.kille

Update from the wall – I’ll have more to say when I’ve gathered my thoughts on the ground, but hopefully you get an idea of how we’re feeling from this video. @hazel_findlay

@rab.equipment @dmm_wales @scarpa_uk by @angus.kille

It all came together with a POP...

After falling off the final hard move of The Meltdown 8c+/9a five times, I opted for a strenuous but more secure finish. Last night I led the route smoothly through all the hard climbing, until an audible *pop* on this move.

Of course, I wasn't going to let go. I climbed the final run-out with one finger down, quite terrified of dropping it on my final chance to climb the route.

It's been an absolutely epic journey trying to master this curious bit of rock – I've got loads to reflect on and lots I've already learned. For now I'll be nursing my little finger and saying thanks to everyone that supported me.

Thanks @mountexpeds for capturing the whole ascent on film, Tom Butel for belaying and @hazel_findlay for lots of support.

Thanks @llanberisresoles especially for their expertise and shoe wizardry that really made the difference on this one.

And of course thanks to @rab.equipment @dmm_wales and @scarpa_uk for being so good at what they do.

#rockclimbing #climbing #wearerab #themountainpeople #climbingvideo #ukclimbing #slabclimbing #scarpaclimb #sportclimbing #slateclimbing #climbing_is_my_passion #climb by @angus.kille

I managed to fall after the last bolt on my slab project – although to be fair that’s still ten metres from the end.

Off to Kalymnos now to put all my slab skills to good use on soft limestone tufas ❤️☀️

Psyched to take more falls on this slab in December 😊

And thanks @scarpa_uk and @llanberisresoles for helping me stand on the knife edges.

Thanks @butel.mountaineering for all the good catches, and @hazel_findlay for capturing this with a baby on her back.

The Very Big and the Very Small 8b+/c

@rab.equipment @dmm_climbing @rab.equipment.uk #scarpaclimb #wearerab by @angus.kille

The Jub Jub Bird is a classic E6 that’s been in my head for a decade – the thought of traversing the steep underside of the big hanging fin to find that exposed position on the arête just wouldn’t go away.

You climb a vertical pillar, throw as much gear in the back of it as you can, and then make the crux runout to the hanging arête. I had to retreat back to the pillar several times until I committed to a fiendish move I couldn’t reverse.

It’s a brilliant position on that arête, with your forearms swelling and the sun going golden as it lowers into the sea behind you. I plugged one cam in and lay backed up the fin to the safety of a birds-nest ledge. What a climb.

The Jub Jub Bird, E6 6b - Rhoscolyn, North Wales

Photos: @ray_wood 📸

#wearerab #themountainpeople by @angus.kille

I’ve been back on Rainbow Slab, holding onto some very small things.

I’m pretty blown away by how hard I’ve found this route. I keep learning and re-learning lessons about shoe rubber, movement, skin and most of all tension, but I’m still not quite up to the task.

This isn’t the hardest route I’ve climbed, it’s not even the hardest slate slab I’ve climbed, so it’s humbling – and inspiring – how much there is to learn. I’ve just got to keep turning up with more curiosity 🙂

Thanks @butel.mountaineering for being a mega supportive partner, and @llanberisresoles and @scarpa_uk for the essential shoecraft.

The Very Big and the Very Small 8b+/c 🌈

@rab.equipment @dmm_climbing @rab.equipment.uk by @angus.kille

@angus.kille making light work of Cosmic Wheels 7C on the Mallory boulder

📹 @source_climbing

#WeAreRab #TheMountainPeople by @angus.kille

The last day of summer. I hope I never forget this one☀️❤️ by @angus.kille

First lead burn on Yma O Hyd – such a treat to be back on this wall.

Apart from having great moves on great rock, it’s cool to jump on lead on an E10 without having to practise the gear placements or feel confident about the send.

Some people say the sportiness on this wall detracts from the traddiness (whatever that means) or that it’s a shame to have fixed gear in mountain rock (OK pegs are a bit lame). But it’s just a great rock climb… and it’s cool to have such breadth of style in British trad.

I think of this as a 5.14 R on Welsh soil, but the bolts are tie-off pegs and it’s got a weird start. Psyched!

Thanks @herceramics for the video and @hazel_findlay for the inspo 🙌

@rab.equipment @dmm_climbing @scarpa_uk @rab.equipment.uk by @angus.kille

Well worth going out of your way for this one – a bunch of memorable moves on excellent rock. It was a particular pleasure sticking my bilberry-stained fingers into that LH slot.

This one went super quickly thanks to video beta from the usual local suspects, I should have paid more attention to the topout though.

I wish we had fields of boulders like this in North Wales, but it’s also a memorable day hanging out on an open moor… great place for a toddler too 🙂

Migneint Cowboi 7C/+

@rab.equipment @dmm_climbing @scarpa_uk @rab.equipment.uk by @angus.kille

A couple of birthday boulders at the barrel yesterday – and beautiful beach scenes in the afternoon.

I complain about North Wales weather more than most, but with good bouldering conditions in a heatwave, and stunning empty beach on the same day, there’s a lot to be said for our summers ☀️❤️

Thanks @hazel_findlay for such a brilliant day. (And nice one on the E10 project 😂)

The boulders are Barrel Traverse and Barrel Groove – both 7Cish?

@rab.equipment @scarpa_uk @dmm_climbing @rab.equipment.uk by @angus.kille

⚠️Trigger Warning ⛔️ — This bouldering video contains a dab…

I’m surprised this traverse isn’t more popular – climbs really well and it’s a good excuse to do that dyno again. Great training for my slab project.

Oldboy 7C+/V10 🪨 Thanks @hazel_findlay for videoing and looking after our daughter at the same time 🎥 👶

@rab.equipment @dmm_climbing @scarpa_uk @rab.equipment.uk #climbing #bouldering by @angus.kille