15 days ago
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Posted On: October 19th 2026, 02:00 pm
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The Jub Jub Bird is a classic E6 that’s been in my head for a decade – the thought of traversing the steep underside of the big hanging fin to find that exposed position on the arête just wouldn’t go away.
You climb a vertical pillar, throw as much gear in the back of it as you can, and then make the crux runout to the hanging arête. I had to retreat back to the pillar several times until I committed to a fiendish move I couldn’t reverse.
It’s a brilliant position on that arête, with your forearms swelling and the sun going golden as it lowers into the sea behind you. I plugged one cam in and lay backed up the fin to the safety of a birds-nest ledge. What a climb.
The Jub Jub Bird, E6 6b - Rhoscolyn, North Wales
Photos: @ray_wood 📸
#wearerab #themountainpeople
You climb a vertical pillar, throw as much gear in the back of it as you can, and then make the crux runout to the hanging arête. I had to retreat back to the pillar several times until I committed to a fiendish move I couldn’t reverse.
It’s a brilliant position on that arête, with your forearms swelling and the sun going golden as it lowers into the sea behind you. I plugged one cam in and lay backed up the fin to the safety of a birds-nest ledge. What a climb.
The Jub Jub Bird, E6 6b - Rhoscolyn, North Wales
Photos: @ray_wood 📸
#wearerab #themountainpeople
Comments (15)
15 days agoandycavemountaineer
Nice Angus, such a line… I remember the peg not looking great in 1990! I was too gripped to fall on it… is it even there now?
15 days agorocksolidclimbinguk
Nice one. We had a good look at that from the top the other day (and below 😂) and it still seemed too scary looking to give it a go. It looks like if you fall off you’ll go whamming in to the Godzilla wall? Is there gear on the fin?!?
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