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Mads Wildgaard

@madswildgaard

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For this piece of quarterly writing, I’d like to focus on a new producer in the Jura. There’s no shortage of Houillons in the wine world, and there’s no shortage of new producers in the Jura. It’s a geographically small area with a limited number of native grapes, which unfortunately means fewer bottles are available. Now and then in any given wine region, a producer can push something in any given direction that will be genre-defining, and that’s very much what happens at Eric & Lydia.

Champavant

Chardonnay ‘26

Ploussard ‘24

Let me first paint the setting. A covered terrace with an old manual press. A manual crusher. A kitchen sieve grabbing the worst bits. I show up at 6.30 after no sleep to meet Eric, fully awake and ready to go; the sun has not risen yet. Nina, their daughter, is up and ready, with school just a week from starting again. Nils, their son, in his teens, like any other of his age, is taking his sweet time to get up. A short meeting and a cup of coffee later were in the vines of the Champavant, just south of Arbois. Eric has chosen this morning, just after a long night of rain, to achieve just a bit more dilution of otherwise very concentrated grapes, in this record-breaking warm vintage.

Ploussard ‘24

It’s highly unusual to see such precise winemaking with this analogue methodology, and to be completely without faults is also a feat as such. What happens typically within any given region is that the wines will swing between one or two directions, and everything will move on a spectrum within i.e Bourgogne, or one method will be the only way and everything must be as such i.e., Rhône. Jura has been caught a bit in between, with some old houses showing one way, while Pierre Overnoy has made one specific kind of wine very famous. New growers are trying to find a way somewhere in between these stylistic choices, but it’s increasingly rare that someone shows a very new way to make a wine, and that’s exactly what I want to say with this post. While the Savagnins of Eric and Lydia really are precise and very well crafted, to me it’s the Ploussard stealing the show with its ferric and mineral qualities, while constantly balancing on a fine line b by @madswildgaard

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a month ago

Another quarter 👋 by @madswildgaard

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3 months ago

🌔 by @madswildgaard

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7 months ago

The saying, you get what you pay for, is truly one to be tested by the world of wine. Brought up in a communist household, the credo for us was, we all deserve the best. Early this year, a few of us went through a set of wines that, for one, made me realise that there’s a certain reason why the wines we drink sometimes can be the value of a small car. Secondarily, in contrast to another set of wines, it made it abundantly clear that pedigree and inherited wealth are about as much a reality as DNA is, but we don’t call it a science, as we’ve by now labeled it as luck. And we believe it’s just like that, or at least we’ve decided it to be so…

The 2002 Dujac Clos Saint Denis Grand Cru was that. It’s a world of ambivalence as you drink it, but the results speak for themselves, because there’s no denying you haven’t had anything like it. It defies logic. Dried orange peel, rooibos tea, forest after rain, and the finest berries you’ve had. It’s defined what that region is, but at the same time, it’s also about as predetermined as it gets, and that’s where it gets a little old. by @madswildgaard

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10 months ago

A few thoughts below, as a new thing I’ll try to do.

#klauspeterkeller #domaineovernoy #domainelabet by @madswildgaard

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a year ago

Another season 🔁 by @madswildgaard

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a year ago

November to April ⭕️ by @madswildgaard

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a year ago

🥵🍁 by @madswildgaard

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2 years ago

🇩🇰🤝🇫🇷 by @madswildgaard

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2 years ago

🤷‍♂️autumn through spring 🔄 by @madswildgaard

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3 years ago

Summer ⏹️⏭️ by @madswildgaard

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3 years ago

🫠 taken in 제주시 구좌읍 하도리 by @madswildgaard

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4 years ago